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Cosmetic Valley sets up shop in Shanghai

site-industries-cosmetiques Cosmetic Valley sets up in Shanghai, with a prominent group of people in a convention center.

Cosmetic Valley president Marc-Antoine Jamet announced at the ninth edition of the Cosmetic 360 trade show, currently taking place at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris: " a permanent installation in Shanghai: the French Fragrance and Cosmetics Ambassy ". This Chinese regional branch will have dedicated staff and will deal with issues relating to business activity in China. It is also a " a gateway for those not yet present "adds Cosmetic Valley. The local stakes are obviously those of sales on a gigantic market, while at the same time having a stronger voice on issues relating to parallelism, intellectual property and counterfeiting.

More generally, Cosmetic Valley is delighted with the dynamism of the sector, with this " ecosystem that works "In the words of the Chairman, who welcomes coordinated action by the State, local authorities and stakeholders.

For her part, Franckie Béchereau, director of the Cosmetic 360 trade show, announces the transition from a " structuring event to a structural event. We showcase the industry's innovation, exports and growing skills. We bring together all the links in the industry. We're both a showcase and a factory for innovation. And we do business! "She reminds us that the industry needed this event in 2015, and that today, the show is intensifying without departing from the initial concept.

Christophe Masson, Director of Cosmetic Valley, concludes by explaining that the show " is a source of inspiration for us all. Whether we're talking about environmental transition, the use of our cosmetics, simplified formulas or monomaterials, Cosmetic 360 is a source of inspiration for us all.. "

The show has already announced its dates for 2024: it will be held at the Carrousel du Louvre on October 16 and 17.

Cfic, the trade show for cosmetic industrial transitions

Cfic

"Climate change, resource conservation, the digital transition, responsibility towards future generations... these are just some of the challenges facing manufacturers. Our role, as a community facilitator, is to support all players in the industry (own brands, laboratories, manufacturers, processors, subcontractors, research centers, etc.) in their product innovation strategy (content/container) and the adaptation of their production site."say the organizers of Cfic, the trade show for industrial transitions in cosmetics.

Cfic is a concept designed for players in the cosmetics industry, whether they're looking to identify new partners, capture new markets, identify new areas for innovation, think differently about their business, or inspire new vocations... The show will be held on November 21 and 22, 2023, in Lyon, France's leading industrial region.

The entire value chain will be showcased through four universes:

- industrial supplies & equipment
Reducing energy and water consumption; waste management and treatment; improving carbon footprint, implementing less energy-intensive processes; developing solutions for bulk distribution, etc.

- new generation solutions & services
Environmental engineering and energy efficiency; test and measurement control; analysis and testing laboratories; traceability and counterfeiting; environmental labelling; life cycle analysis; carbon footprinting; eco-toxicity, artificial intelligence, returns management...

- ingredients with added environmental and social value
Vertical farm, natural ingredients, essential oil distillery, ingredients from controlled / natural / biodegradable sources, co-products, etc.

- packaging for the future
Eco-design; recycling; anti-waste; new materials; reusable packaging, etc. Content/container interaction; data management; traceability; personalization; bulk cleaning solutions...

Conferences will be held, with the presence of committed personalities:

  • Benoit Schumann, President WeClean - Founder NGO Project Rescue Ocean
  • Cassandre Milius, founder of The Good Habits
  • Kevin Polizzi, President Unitel Group (Technologies & Smarts Buildings)
  • Pauline Grumel, Unisoap founder
  • Didier Onraita-Bruneau, President of the day by day and Mademoiselle Vrac grocery networks
  • Fabrice Peltier, designer, creative eco-design consultant and committed artist

Building the future

Because employment and the attractiveness of professions are key issues for the industry, Cfic will be offering specific services over the two days of the event to help companies find their future talents in the industry's short-staffed professions. Schools, universities and training centers will be on hand to identify companies' expectations, propose suitable profiles and attract new talent to the cosmetics industry.

Cfic alongside Prod&Pack and Cosmed: obvious synergies

Cfic and Prod&Pack offer complementary solutions. Prod&Pack is a multi-sector show, while Cfic presents solutions specific to the cosmetics industry, providing a 360° panorama: sourcing, formulation, analysis/testing, processes, packaging and distribution. To facilitate access to both events and all their contents, the Cfic badge will give access to Prod&Pack and vice versa.

Cosmed, the trade association representing companies in the cosmetics industry, is a partner of the event.

Note: because innovation is a lever for development, this year the show is launching the Cfic Awards. The aim is to reveal and reward innovations in the cosmetics industry.

Some 160 exhibitors and 2,000 visitors are expected.

The "Grace Box", an elegant, refined and eco-responsible box

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of boxes with a self-branding logo.

Presented at the Luxe Pack trade show in Monaco, the "Grace Box" combines strength and lightness, offering, according to Procos, a "perfect fit". "incomparable experience at every opening."

"Carefully designed, this eco-friendly box pushes the boundaries of sustainability. Made from eco-friendly materials, it's a testament to our commitment to the planet."says Leander Kritikos, CEO of Procos.

Three versions are available: a lacquered version with magnetic closure, a single-material version without magnet in two colors, and two constructions (construction 1: box + lid; construction 2: grooved box + lid).

According to Procos, the "Grace Box" represents a major breakthrough in sustainable packaging, responding to the growing demand for environmentally friendly alternatives. Procos has harnessed its creativity to develop this innovative, patented concept over the past few months, addressing concerns linked to the planet's environmental challenges.

At the heart of the "Grace Box" is an innovative composition mainly derived from ultra-condensed recycled brown cardboard. This guarantees that the new box is entirely recyclable and reusable, depending on the finish, considerably reducing plastic waste and its harmful impact on the environment.

The main features of the Grace Box are as follows:

1. Environmental awareness: the "Grace Box" sets new standards in terms of eco-responsibility, being lighter than a grey board (-10 % approx.) and a wooden box (-30 to 40%). By choosing the Grace Box, Procos customers are actively helping to reduce CO2 emissions.

2. Cost-efficiency: the Grace Box is approximately 10 to 15 % less expensive than conventional grey cardboard boxes of the same thickness. This economic aspect enables brands to make sustainable choices without compromising profitability.

3. Reliability redefined: with its exceptional durability, the "Grace Box" effectively resists deformation, ensuring that precious products are perfectly protected throughout their journey.

"The Grace Box embodies our vision to stimulate positive change in the packaging industry. By introducing this environmentally friendly solution, Procos aspires to revolutionize the way companies approach their packaging needs, contributing to a greener, more sustainable world."says Leander Kritikos.

The "Grace Box" comes at a critical time when companies around the world are actively seeking environmentally-friendly alternatives to reduce their ecological footprint. With its combination of durability, cost-effectiveness and reliability, this new lightweight box is destined to make a significant impact from retail to online sales, as well as watchmaking, jewelry, cosmetics and many other sectors.

Cosmed, accelerating the internationalization of SMEs in the cosmetics industry.

COSMED

The French cosmetics sector set a new export sales record in 2023, with a foreign trade balance of 8.6 billion euros, up 15 1TP6Q over the first six months of the year. Nearly two-thirds of French cosmetics production is destined for export. This performance is driven in particular by SMEs and VSEs, who can count on Cosmed's support in promoting French cosmetics for export.

Strengthening links between French cosmetics companies and ecosystems in growth markets

Cosmed was invited by The Office of SMEs Promotion (Osmep) and the Thailand Institute of Scientific and Technological Research (Tistr), the two governmental organizations in charge of supporting Thai SMEs, to strengthen cooperation with France and in particular :

  • Develop partnerships to enhance the value of natural plant-based materials,
  • Contribute to the competitiveness of companies by sharing Cosmed's regulatory expertise.

The Malagasy government calls on Cosmed 

Structuring high-quality, sustainable, high-performance supply chains is a priority for the Madagascan government, to meet the demands of the international market for plant materials for cosmetic use and ensure the competitiveness of local production.

Since 2022, Cosmed has been helping the country to structure its natural plant raw materials industry for cosmetic use, and will be a privileged partner of the 2nd edition of the Innovative Natural Ingredients Madagascar (iniM) trade show and conference, to be held from November 28 to 30, 2023 in Antananarivo.

Cosmed also maintains partnerships with trade associations such as the IBA (USA) and CTFAS RRI (Singapore) to reinforce the mutual provision of services for exporting companies.

Co-management of Filière VIEs to promote French companies abroad

As part of the French government's stimulus package, we have strengthened the VIE (volontariat international en entreprise) scheme. The cosmetics industry, considered to be a "showcase" of French excellence, benefits from two VIE programs. Cosmed is in charge of a VIE for Asean, an area of 10 South-East Asian countries where the cosmetics market is worth 21 billion euros, and aims to grow by 30 % over the next two years. The mission of the VIE Asean is to raise the profile of the French cosmetics industry in this zone, and to provide manufacturers with the data they need to better understand this market and facilitate cosmetics exports.

Promoting French cosmetics at international trade fairs

After a successful first edition, Cosmed's "French Cosmetics" area will be back in three weeks' time at the Beautyworld Middle East trade show in Dubai: 15 companies will be supported on 150 m² of exhibition space.

New for 2024: Cosmed will carry the French pavilion at Beauty Istanbul from October 2 to 4, 2024. Some 150 m² of Business France-labeled exhibition space will be available for French companies. With 13,700 visitors from 62 countries and 845 exhibitors, this trade show offers opportunities from Eastern Europe to Central Asia and the Balkans.

Participation in international regulatory projects

Cosmed sits on the European Commission's cosmetics regulatory bodies, as well as on national and international standardization bodies. Its regulatory and scientific contributions and positions are internationally recognized.

Backed by this expertise, Cosmed contributes to regulatory projects, notably in growth markets such as the United States (FDA workshop on GMP or Safety Gate), Canada (labeling regulations) or New Zealand (Pfas regulations), etc.

Cosmetics regulatory support in 120 countries

Cosmetic exporters can rely on Cosmed's regulatory watch, which covers 120 countries. The database, available 24 hours a day, contains all applicable texts, substance tables, reports, summaries, etc. (1,500 updated sheets). An improved version of the consultation platform has been on line since the start of the school year. Among all the new features, a new area, accessible from the home page, will enable you to view information more quickly on current "hot" topics or reminders of regulatory deadlines around the world.

Issuing over-the-counter certificates for cosmetic products

The "certificat de vente libre" (CVL) is a document required by the authorities of some sixty countries as a condition for importing finished cosmetic products into their markets. It certifies that the cosmetic products mentioned comply with European regulation 1223/2009, and can therefore be marketed in France and the European Union. Cosmed issues CVLs online at www.cosmedcvl.fr

Positive Plastics teams up with Roctool to launch "Positive Surfaces" kit

Positive Plastics - Roctools

Positive Plastics offers a unique kit of various resins and plastic compounds that enable products to transition towards sustainability and circularity. Roctool engineering focuses on the " heat & cool "In this way, we can improve the quality and processing of recycled plastics.

Positive Plastics aims to give designers, engineers and product managers a more positive vision of plastics. Since the launch of its first kit at Fakuma 2021, Positive Plastics has offered an updated version every year, with ever more innovative resins. These plastics are suitable for injection molding in the manufacture of luxury products such as packaging, consumer electronics, household appliances, sporting goods, automotive accessories and more.

site-industries-cosmetiques A monochrome image of a device with a snake on it.

Roctool and Positive Plastics sign four-hands kit 

The Positive Plastics team, which is constantly striving to offer new circular solutions, was delighted with Roctool's initiative to create a combined kit for the new edition.

Mathieu Boulanger, CEO of Roctool, said: "I love Positive Plastics' projects. This kit is a great tool for any designer looking to create more sustainable products. But I firmly believe that the material is not the only parameter to consider. It's up to us to see how we can improve the perceived quality of these materials. How can we improve the look and feel of recycled materials without surface decoration? We lacked this perspective. So I proposed to Positive Plastics that we collaborate and explore this avenue."

Markus Paloheimo, co-founder of Positive Plastics, and the Roctool team have designed a new device to showcase the different qualities, textures and mechanical properties.

The Pernoud Group modified the mold and Oerlikon Balzers supplied the hot runners.

The Positive Surfaces kit features 100 % post-consumer, mechanically recycled materials: PP, PET, ABS, PC/ABS and ABS with glass fiber.

"We're delighted to provide designers with additional know-how and tools to create aesthetically pleasing, circular products.says Efrat Friedland, co-founder of Positive Plastics. Roctool molding technology has proven its worth. It enables the creation of advanced surfaces, ranging from matt to high-gloss finishes. In addition to the aesthetic benefits, brands also have the opportunity to eliminate secondary operations and thus reduce production costs. The induction process improves the whole process, eliminating defects, improving flow and, depending on resin quality, reducing cycle time. This is a real opportunity to highlight recyclates and encourage their adoption by consumers."

The official launch of the Positive Surfaces and Positive Plastics kits is currently taking place at the Fakuma trade show, which runs from October 17 to 21 in Friedrichshafen, Germany. They will be presented on the stands of Sabic, Mocom, Poracom and Group Pernoud.

Positive Plastics will be sending out a free kit to one hundred brands and design agencies, as it has done with previous kits, to encourage the creation of new products.

The latest kits will soon be available for purchase online.

Photos : © Daniel Schvarcz

Decorate the inside of a perfume bottle with interior lacquering.

site-industries-cosmetiques Three black perfume bottles on a white background.

At Luxe Pack Monaco, Stoelzle Masnières presented its exclusive water-based interior lacquering technique. 

With interior lacquering, the company sets a new standard in glass bottle decoration, emphasizing aesthetics, durability and innovation in the perfume industry.

According to the company, this lacquering is the only solution for decorating the inside of water-based bottles available on the market today.

"This revolutionary approach distinguishes us as the only supplier of water-based interior lacquering on the market, marking a remarkable breakthrough in glass bottle decoration. Thanks to this innovative process, we enhance the bottle's interior, giving it a distinctive look".says Stoelzle Masnières.

An innovative process

  • Interior transformation: interior lacquering redefines bottle aesthetics by focusing on the inner surface, offering a unique perspective on product presentation. 
  • Intensification of shape, depth and thickness: this technique enables precise control of the bottle's shape, depth and thickness, offering a distinct visual and tactile experience.
  • Hydro-based solution: interior lacquering is a water-based interior spray solution, in line with environmentally-friendly industry practices.

The inner lacquer covers the inside of the bottle. This guarantees complete coverage, taking into account the specific volume of the bottle and the density of the glass. Despite direct contact with the juice inside, the unique formulation of the lacquer prevents perfume transfer, even with alcohol-containing products, eliminating the need for an internal pouch.

The formulation of the lacquer is meticulously elaborated by Stoelzle Masnières, enabling it to be customized to meet specific customer needs. In addition to being water-based, the lacquer is free from CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction), SVHC (substances of very high concern) and migrating pigments, guaranteeing product integrity. This commitment to quality is in line with Stoelzle's ecological principles and complies with California Proposition 65 safety standards.

Interior lacquering offers great design flexibility thanks to a range of tones from translucent to opaque. Ongoing research and development efforts are aimed at further expanding the color palette, while guaranteeing the precision of each shade. Further development is required for specific shades.

This technique adapts to different shapes and sizes, making it a versatile addition to bottle decoration. It harmonizes well with other decoration methods, such as screen printing, hot stamping, digital printing and embossing, generally applied externally.

Record attendance for Luxe Pack Monaco

Luxury Pack

With a 10.5 % increase in visitor numbers to 10,420, Luxe Pack Monaco this year broke its attendance record since its creation 35 years ago. A surge in visitor numbers over the past two years (+10 % increase vs. 2022 and +15 % vs. 2021), due in particular to the ever-increasing number of companies represented, up 19 %. 

High decision-maker profiles, still in the majority, gained two points, not forgetting the consolidation of foreign visitors, who accounted for more than half of all visitors from 95 different countries, with a strong increase in British visitors (+25 % vs. 2022). According to its organizers, these figures make Luxe Pack Monaco the largest melting pot dedicated to the creative packaging industry.

"The strong growth in visitor numbers is a source of great satisfaction for us, and confirms that at Luxe Pack Monaco brands and principals find precise solutions for their packaging projects and answers to the challenges facing the sector.explains Fabienne Germond, show manager.

"Luxe Pack's worldwide reputation and community are proof that our event is THE platform of expression par excellence for packaging professionals. It's a unique, immersive event that unveils the trends and innovations of an entire industry. This recognition is also the fruit of the commitment of our exhibitors, who, thanks to their spirit of innovation and creativity, make Luxe Pack an event not to be missed.continues Fabienne Germond.

Successful launch for Luxe Home

Inaugurated this year, the new Luxe Home space has perfectly fulfilled its mission: to support brands in a specific segment, that of ambiance products, by putting them in touch with the best suppliers in the field.

From beauty, fashion and leather goods to spirits, hotels and jewelry, visitors to the Home area discovered candles, diffusers, matches, snuffers, scented stems and dry diffusion with bead encapsulators... a veritable cradle of inspiration for their future fragrance creations.

On the strength of the visitors to this area and the projects discussed during the event, Luxe Home will be repeated in 2024 with new solutions on offer, given the boom in the home fragrance sector.

Luxe Pack in Green awards three exhibitors

Once again this year, there were a large number of entries for the Luxe Pack in Green awards, in partnership with Infinity Global (52 entries for both categories).

Of the four companies nominated in the "Best Sustainable Packaging Innovation" category (Adhespack, Furlanis, Holmen Iggesund and James Cropper), Adhespack finally took the prize with its 100 % paper perfume sample solution. Plastic- and aluminum-free, its fragrance labels are recyclable, compostable and biodegradable in 154 days.

In the "Best CSR Initiative" category, the jury nominated three exhibitors: Albéa, GCA and Groupe Pochet. Albéa won with RecyMakeUp, a project selected by Citeo and Adelphe. RecyMakeUp aims not only to improve the recyclability of plastic packaging used in make-up and skincare products, but also to share best practices with the entire industry in order to drive the sector forward.

The jury also awarded its "Coup de Coeur" to the Ekomat recycling project presented by GCA. Running in the city of Yalova (Turkey) since June 2022, the project aims not only to collect and recycle glass, metal and plastic beverage containers, but also to raise awareness and educate the local population.

The privatized train emulates

Leaving Paris Gare de Lyon on Monday morning and arriving at Monaco station in the early afternoon, the privatized Luxe Pack train won over all its passengers, who were only waiting for one thing when they got off: to reserve their place for the 2024 show, so rich and fruitful were the activities on offer and the networking between participants. For them, the show really began on board, and everyone emphasized a "very practical and qualitative" initiative, bearing in mind the importance of dividing carbon emissions by 30 by opting for rail...

80 speakers took the floor at 35 conferences

Some 80 speakers took turns in the general conference room and in the Formulation area to share their best practices, expertise and experience at 35 conferences, workshops and feedback sessions.

Among the most popular sessions:

  • Regenerative Purchasing: Overcoming the unexpected, shaping the future, by integrating CSR into the purchasing operating model with Moet-Hennessy and L'occitane En Provence
  • Tougher international regulations: Empowering designers for sustainability with Quantis, Diageo, Unilever
  • Foresight: New consumer(s), new luxury? With Wunderman Thompson Intelligence
  • Life & Style Trends 2025 by Nelly Rodi

Twelve conferences are available for replay on the show website:
https://luxepack-monaco2023.eventmaker.io/fr/replays

Silab publishes research results from university partnerships

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman wearing blue gloves works in a laboratory and publishes the results of research resulting from university partnerships.

True to its innovation strategy, Silab establishes scientific partnerships with university research teams every year. 

Four publications related to these latest scientific advances in the field of skin have just been accepted in impact-factor journals: 

  • A research partnership with the University of California San Diego has revealed a hitherto unknown influence of Cutibacterium acnes on the lipid composition of the epidermis. In fact, this commensal microbial strain induces an increase in the lipids essential for barrier function. 
    Commensal Cutibacterium acnes induce epidermal lipid synthesis important for skin barrier function, Almoughrabie S. et al, Sci adv., 2023 Aug. 
  • Work carried out with the Collège de France and the Institut de Génomique Fonctionnelle de Lyon has led to the development of a skin model. in vitro from cell sheets. Analysis of gene expression profiles and characterization of the extracellular matrix produced revealed angiogenic properties specific to papillary and reticular fibroblasts. 
    Papillary and reticular fibroblasts generate distinct microenvironments that differentially impact angiogenesis, Mauroux A. et al., Acta Biomater., 2023 Sep.
  • In partnership with Université Laval Québec, a cell extraction technique was developed to isolate resident skin cells from the same human donor, while preserving immune and endothelial cells. This approach enabled the reconstruction of an autologous, vascularized and immunocompetent skin model. 
    An in vitro autologous, vascularized, and immunocompetent Tissue Engineered Skin model obtained by the self-assembled approach, Attiogbe E. et al, Acta Biomater., 2023 Sep. 
  • A research partnership with the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne has enabled us to characterize the hygroscopic potential of apiogalacturonans. The investigation in silico by molecular modelling has revealed significant hygroscopic potential.
    Highlighting the hygroscopic capacities of apiogalacturonans, Verzeaux L. et al, J Mol Graph Model, 2023 Sep. 

Berg+Schmidt launches innovative emulsifier for sustainable, natural cosmetics  

Berg+Schmidt BergaMuls ET2 across

Berg+Schmidt, experts in natural cosmetic ingredients, offer a new plant-based emulsifier. Derived from oats, wood and guar gum, BergaMuls ET2 includes water-soluble and insoluble components that enhance emulsion stability and viscosity.

BergaMuls ET2 is the latest product in the company's range of fiber-based emulsifiers. This range began ten years ago with BergaMuls ET1, a thickener suitable for a range of applications, including oil-free serum formulations or a sensory additive in emulsion products. Both ingredients enhance the sensory aspect of many nourishing formulations, and come in the form of a powder made from dried and ground natural fibers. Sustainable sourcing from abundant, draught-resistant materials is another advantage of working with BergaMuls products.

BergaMuls ET2 uses a dual mode of action, making it an ideal emulsifier and stabilizer according to Berg+Schmidt. Unlike traditional emulsifiers for natural cosmetics, BergaMuls ET2 is not esterified, but can be cold-processed, and is therefore less likely to create soaping effects. Typically used at a concentration of between 1 and 3%, the viscosity of an o/w emulsion increases linearly with the size of the oil phase. BergaMuls ET2 can be used to formulate products ranging from light, translucent, refreshing gel-creams to soothing lotions and compact creams.

"BergaMuls products are extremely gentle on the skin barrier because they have no surface activity, making them suitable for emulsifier-free concepts."says Berg+Schmidt. 

BergaMuls ET2 will be presented for the first time at the SEPAWA 2023 congress in Berlin, from October 25 to 27, at stand C140. Company experts will be on hand to explain and demonstrate treatment options for various personal care applications. They will illustrate how ingredients can be customized to meet individual needs, offering innovative, environmentally-friendly, safe and functional solutions.

Kristin Köhler, Division Manager Cosmetics at Berg+Schmidt, comments: "As consumers become increasingly aware of what's in their cosmetic products, we can help users and manufacturers make an eco-responsible choice for a highly effective end product. The new BergaMuls ET2 recycled from food by-products meets a policy of zero waste, circularity and sustainable approaches. What's more, it's a water-free and vegan raw material, making it ideal for tomorrow's eco-conscious cosmetic formulations."

Albéa launches Breizhstick range of ready-to-recycle sticks made in France

Albéa Breizhstick

At Luxe Pack Monaco, low-impact packaging solutions were in the spotlight at Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance. Among the products presented was the Breizhstick range.

The first Breizhstick guided stick, launched a year ago, is now part of a :

  • Breizhstick Tilty, designed with a bevelled shape for precise application,
  • The new Breizhstick Blunt, with a flat shape for classic application.

Both sticks are mainly made of PP. Only the cupules contain a mixture of PE and PP, two recyclable materials that enhance the stick's functionality.

"With the Breizhstick family, we are expanding our range of ready-to-recycle solutions while meeting our commitment to reduce the carbon footprint of our packaging. Cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics brands now have a choice of two designs that are both desirable and responsible", says Aline Roland, Marketing Director, Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance.

The Breizhstick family is manufactured at Albéa Plouhinec, France.

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