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Estée Lauder plans to open a perfumery "Atelier" in Paris

The Estée Lauder Companies

The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has announced the creation of an "Atelier" in Paris, a development center designed to boost its innovation and strategic ambitions in luxury and prestige fragrances.

ELC intends to capitalize on the vitality of its fragrance business, whose reported net sales have increased by almost 40 % since the pre-pandemic fiscal 2019. The company, which has recorded 10 consecutive quarters of double-digit organic growth through to the end of fiscal 2023, plans to open a dedicated perfumery "Atelier" in Paris by the end of 2024.

This Atelier will focus exclusively on fragrance innovation and know-how, and will provide global support for ELC's portfolio of fragrance brands, close to partner fragrance houses, ingredient suppliers and its manufacturing network. Led by an agile team of fragrance experts, it will deepen co-creation and collaboration with external partners to accelerate the time-to-market of innovative products, packaging and concepts. 

"We are delighted to announce the creation of our new Atelier, said Stéphane de La Faverie, Group Executive Chairman. As a catalyst for innovation across our fragrance portfolio, its location will give us direct access to some of the best creative design resources, industry talent and local suppliers and perfumers, to continue to accelerate our momentum in this exciting category."

ELC's fragrance portfolio includes Jo Malone London, Tom Ford, Estée Lauder, Le Labo, Clinique, Kilian Paris, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Aerin Beauty, and Aramis.

"ELC's ongoing commitment to its long-term fragrance strategy builds on this extraordinary heritage of creativity and innovation, said Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO. The strength of the company's fragrance portfolio, reinforced by the strategic support of l'Atelier, positions the company well to drive future growth and value in this dynamic and growing category, enabling ELC to continue to bring exceptional luxury and prestige fragrances to consumers around the world."

Some €16.4 million awarded to Global Bioenergies to build its biobased isobutene plant

Global Bioenergies

The French government, via the "First plant" call for projects launched by Bpifrance as part of the France 2030 plan, will contribute to the financing of the 10,000-ton-per-year isobutene and derivatives plant project with non-dilutive financial support of €16.4 million, in the form of a grant (60 %) and a repayable advance (40 %). The plant, designed by Global Bioenergies, a specialist in the conversion of plant resources into chemical compounds, is scheduled to come on stream in 2027.

The unique technology developed by Global Bioenergies, enabling isobutene to be produced from natural resources, will enable the cosmetics industry to enhance the naturalness of its formulas, and aviation industry players to gradually move away from their dependence on oil, without compromising performance and without the need to modify existing equipment and facilities.

Bruno Bonnell, General Secretary for Investment, in charge of France 2030, explains: "In France, Global Bioenergies has developed an innovative process of worldwide scope, representing a new decarbonation solution for various industrial sectors. France 2030 aims to detect, de-risk and support breakthrough technologies."

Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies, comments: "This support from the French government is essential, and forms the basis for the overall financing of the plant, which we expect to complete by mid-2024. This plant, which will be located in France, will contribute to the development of abundant local resources, the reindustrialization of the region and the creation of a completely new industry."

Cosmetic 360 opens soon

site-industries-cosmetiques Cosmetic 360 international innovation show.

The Cosmetic 360 trade show will be held on October 18 and 19, 2023 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. More than 220 global innovations will be presented, representing the entire industry.

Explanations from show manager Franckie Béchereau

Cosmoya unveils its suncare formulas at I Feel Good Event

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman applying sunscreen on the beach.

Cosmoya, a cosmetics formulation laboratory, asserted its specialization in the formulation of suncare products at the I Feel Good Event held in Paris, Porte Champerret, on September 19 and 20, 2023.

A sun-focused custom formulation laboratory

This laboratory, created in March 2021 by Marie-Odile Hecht, offers comprehensive support in cosmetic formulation and is aimed at all types of brands to "make their ideas blossom".

With a wealth of experience in suncare products, the company offers a wide range of natural or sensorial formula frames, in all types of galenic formulations. 

Cosmoya can also evaluate in vitro SPF of formulas created in the laboratory to save formulation time.

What if making suncare products was no longer a headache?

"Today, formulating products to protect the skin from UV radiation is increasingly complex. We seek to reconcile the irreconcilable. High protection, incredible sensoriality, ease of application, a stable and portable product that is as natural as possible, with no white effect of course, and that scores top marks on all product test applications. At Cosmoya, we are aware of all these challenges, and we offer a made-to-measure service".the company says.

Texen designs the cap for the new men's fragrance Myslf

YSL MSLF _Texen

For the launch of its men's fragrance Myslf, Yves Saint Laurent has opted for ultra-premium refillable packaging. The Texen group was entrusted with the development of a specific cap, with its many technical and aesthetic challenges. 

Myslf Eau de Parfum, with its woody fragrance, is available in three formats with identical caps. For this product, Texen continues its long-standing collaboration with the brand, bringing its expertise in the perfume segment and eco-designed solutions. 

A turnkey creation 

This hood features a remarkably subtle design. It combines streamlined lines with light-and-shadow decorations. 

Once the body of the hood and its insert have been injected, each component is decorated and then assembled on line. The finished product is delivered pre-assembled to the brand. 

The YSL logo is engraved on the inside of the insert and on the top of the cap, both of which are perfectly aligned with the cap and the front of the bottle. 

The magic of decor 

Texen's high level of technical expertise is reflected in the aesthetics of the decors, which are based on a low-solvent HES (high-solids-extract) varnish, followed by a pad printing process on the top. This creates a bold contrast between the glossy walls and the matte top, enhanced by an elegant indentation at the corners. 

In addition, pad printing hugs the smallest contours of the letters, revealing their relief. Extremely fine grain and ultra-smooth surfaces make the technical complexity of these pieces unimaginable. 

Challenge and involvement 

From the particularly demanding injection to the decoration stages, Texen has carried out numerous tests and invested in the most advanced processes to achieve a level of quality shared with the L'Oréal development teams (parameterization and adjustment of industrial processes, decoration techniques, camera controls, etc.). 

Prad: lasers for "Haute Couture" decors 

Prad-Kajal

Kajal Parfumes Paris, known for its luxury fragrances, has opted for French quality, entrusting Prad with Lamar's flamboyant decor. 

The Drôme workshops carefully lacquered the square bottle in transparent gold and then metallised it in bright gold. 

Laser etching on all four sides reveals the contrasting decor, enhancing transparency and creating reflections. 

The name is screen-printed. Lamar is one of the jewels in Kajal's prestigious Classic Collection. The name means "light", "liquid gold". It inspired Mark Buxton to create the fragrance. The famous perfumer created a sensual, rich and natural fragrance with notes of roses and jasmine for "resemble the beauty of a golden sun setting on the horizon."

In 2022, Prad had already decorated the bottles for Kajal's two previous jewels. For Almaz, Prad achieved emerald-transparent lacquering, shiny silver metallization and delicate laser cutting. For Faris, the decoration is a combination of three processes: metallization, laser finishing and silk-screening. 

Prad continues to develop its laser technologies to better serve its customers and bring modernity and finesse to their decors.

Photo: © Kajal

Bormioli Luigi designs the bottle for the new Armani Si Intense

site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle on a white background.

The House of Armani has teamed up with Bormioli Luigi to develop a refillable bottle with jewel-like embossed decoration.

Armani has given its Armani Si Intense line a brand-new design and a refillable offer. For this launch, the brand entrusted Bormioli Luigi with the design and development of a bottle in two sizes, 50 and 100 ml, with a screw cap.  

Exceptional design

While not breaking with the form of the Si collection, Armani is unveiling a decoration that reveals more than ever the interlacing of its logo. For Bormioli Luigi, it's a new creation incorporating in-mold engraving of the letters on two sides of the bottle, a requirement that focuses on the definition and precision of the motif. While the surface of the glass has the brilliance typical of Armani fragrances, the embossed pattern requires special attention at the re-burning stage.

A logo in gold

The two intertwined letters are revealed by a gold pad-printed decoration made from precious metals. This was a complex operation, particularly at the corners. The name "Giorgio Armani", placed exactly in the center of the facing, is screen-printed in black, a process made delicate by the proximity of the embossed decoration. 

With this ultra-premium development, Bormioli Luigi continues its collaboration with the brand and enriches its showcase of refillable products.   

Verescence and Albéa combine their expertise

TWIRL Verescence Albéa

Verescence, a global specialist in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industry, and Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance have combined their expertise to offer a premium version of Albéa's Twirl refillable cosmetic jar.

The base, produced by Verescence in Spain, is made from Verre Infini 20: it incorporates 20 % of post-consumer recycled glass (PCR) and offers a shade that meets the aesthetic demands of luxury brands. The lid, cup and top, all manufactured at Albéa Simandre (France), are made from polypropylene (PP), a recyclable material. The jar has been specially designed to offer an intuitive gesture for quick and easy refilling.

"We were convinced by the Twirl concept and wanted to leverage our glassmaking expertise to offer a premium version in our product catalog. This enables us to meet our customers' growing demand for refillable jars, says Bérangère Raguenet, Marketing and Communications Director at Verescence. This concept also offers a wide variety of decoration options, including the possibility of decorating the inside of the jar using lacquering and pad printing techniques."

Aline Roland, Marketing Director at Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance, adds: "This project with Verescence meets a number of criteria: it's the perfect combination of aesthetics, functionality and durability. What's more, it offers customers a fully customizable solution."

Brands can customize the jar to suit their identity and strategy, for example by integrating recycled plastic in the lid, or even modifying the shape of the jar and lid.

Modernize Your Quality Control Lab

site-industries-cosmetiques A modernized machine in a factory quality control laboratory.

Home and personal care manufacturers are faced with various challenges to ensure the cost-effective delivery of high-quality products. Now more than ever, retailers minimize their product inventories, which results in manufacturers carrying the burden of supply chain efficiency.

This pressure has been further complicated by backend supply chain challenges on material sourcing that's putting an even bigger squeeze on a manufacturer's ability to cost effectively manage product delivery. The constant concern of backordering customers, products not being on retailer shelves, and increased consumer demands all cause stress and disruption. With these challenges it's clear that a short, agile production cycle is more important than ever...or in the words of an industry supply chain manager..." Production cycle times are everything..."

Let's talk about how to shorten your supply chain by days at a cost that is far less than typical production equipment. Manufacturers are used to large capital expenses for production equipment. The cost needed to modernize your QC testing is only a fraction of those investments and will deliver a quick, automated process that streamlines operations and accelerates product disposition decisions.

When looking at adopting a technology to streamline the supply chain, there's a tendency to overlook the activities of the QC department. A review of opportunities for improvement tends to end where production leaves off and picks up again in distribution. Quality may be interested in modernizing the lab with a rapid microbial method (RMM) but views it as a hefty expense. However, they may not be aware of the benefits to operations by reducing production cycle times. In an ideal world, the two groups would communicate with each other about the benefit to the manufacturing plant as a whole. You may not think the quality lab is a concern for operations, but the concerns of operation are heavily influenced by the lab.

Surprisingly, many of today's modern, automated manufacturing facilities still test for microbial contamination using a method that dates back to the late 1800's. The waiting time for test results is typically three to five days but could even be up to 7 days. With a RMM, your plant can obtain an objective result delivered from the lab in just 24 hours.

In addition, what happens when your QC lab brings you a potential contamination issue? Rapid microbial detection allows you to obtain a quick response so you can make an informed decision, mitigating cost and time. The costs of a recall and keeping additional inventory or safety stock is much less than the upfront cost of an RMM. By modernizing your QC method with an RMM, the initial investment is offset with the cost reduction you gain from mitigating risk and reducing your inventory investment.

site-industries-cosmetiques A modernized bottle line on a conveyor belt in a factory.

Choosing the Right RMM

In order to choose the right RMM for your company, you need to consider not only if the RMM is compatible with your portfolio, but also does it fit your company's needs on a global scale? Not all rapid methods are created equal, and neither are the suppliers.

Choosing a rapid method requires considering the range of raw materials and finished goods that can be tested with the selected system. An optimal RMM should be one that is able to test a wide range of product matrices commonly seen in cosmetics and personal care. The full economic benefits of RMMs cannot be recognized if the method cannot be applied to the company's highest volume production products. Look for RMMs that have already been validated and approved by global regulators for testing pharmaceutical products, which make it an acceptable method for your over the counter (OTC) drug products as well.

Quantifying the Value

A RMM increases efficiencies and requires less time, materials, and expertise to operate. RMMs don't just serve a valuable purpose for the lab. They can also benefit your entire organization, starting from the bottom up. It's a domino effect starting by delivering quick, definitive answers on whether your products are free from microbial contaminants and ensuring product quality. Ensuring the utmost product quality allows you to streamline the manufacturing of products quicker and gets them on market shelves first. Being the first to market means a higher revenue share, which boosts your bottom line, and keeps your consumers coming back for more.  

Even if you're already managing an efficient operation, most companies today have room for improvement. The realizable cost savings and reduction in production cycle times and working capital requirements enable your company to pursue more productive endeavors, like funding new projects, developing new products or simply conserving cash.

It is possible to quantify the financial value of time. For example, a high-throughput rapid microbial screening system for a mid-size personal care product manufacturing site can be purchased and installed for less than $50,000 in capital expenditure, achieve payback in six to nine months, and realize an average five-year net present value (NPV) in excess of $500,000. These numbers are based on averages generated using a Financial Impact Assessment developed by a global consumer products company in conjunction with a global management consultancy. The assessment was designed to quantify the value of implementing rapid screening, estimates the payback period and five-year NPV using a company's specific manufacturing and testing data-such as cost of capital and average daily output of finished goods. Proven accurate over years, the analysis is routinely used to support capital equipment purchase requests.

site-industries-cosmetiques Modernize your warehouse

How Can Charles River Laboratories Help You?

Charles River Laboratories can help you with your financial impact assessment to transition to an RMM by involving your QC lab and supply chain operations team using your company's specific data to realize your up front and ongoing ROI.

We've purposely built our portfolio to bring you products and services that deliver accurate, relevant, and reliable data to fuel confident decisions on your product quality and contamination control efforts. Our unique combination of Celsis® rapid microbial detection and Accugenix® microbial identification keeps your manufacturing operations running efficiently and lowers your cost to manufacture. Explore our portfolio of integrated services at www.criver.com/cosmetics.

Moving to a rapid microbial test method is an opportunity to take days out of your production cycle times and put quality products on shelves faster. Can you really afford not to look at these benefits?

site-industries-cosmetiques Pink soap bottles on a conveyor belt in a factory, highlighting the modernized quality control laboratory.

TNT Group designs new hood for Penhaligon's The Omniscient Mr. Thompson

site-industries-cosmetiques A gold bottle with an elephant on it - a gold bottle, an elephant.

Spain's Puig reveals a new fragrance to complement the Portraits Penhaligon's collection. Mr Thompson is a discreet, dedicated butler, keeper of family secrets and spectator to the Penhaligon's family dramas.

This elephant-shaped hood is made up of three parts: one for the animal's head and two for the tusks. TNT Group has gone to great lengths to convey the majesty of the elephant. For an ergonomic closure, there's a PP bouterollé insert that adheres to the ridge, featuring a gold-anodized aluminum chimney and a gold-galvanized brass tray. The gold galvanizing also gives this 100% recyclable zamak hood its distinct, shimmering color.

This piece showcases TNT Group's expertise and sublimates the astonishing Penhaligon saga. TNT Group, manufacturer of premium primary and secondary packaging, has already produced the 18 previous caps for Penhaligon's Portraits collection, and returns with an equally detailed and refined creation.

The Penhaligon's Portraits collection celebrates the English establishment, humor and provocation. The personality of each of these aristocratic characters is reflected in their animal-head hoods, each with a specific symbolism. The essence of Mr. Thompson's character is reflected in notes of black pepper, oak wood and bewitching vanilla.

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