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Skincare: a growing market

site-industries-cosmetiques A glass jar containing a peach-colored cream rests on a glossy black surface, embodying the essence of luxury skincare. Two pink flowers with large petals are cleverly arranged next to it. The lighting of the scene beautifully highlights the texture of the cream and the delicate flowers.

Cosmetic Skin Care - Global Strategic Business Report" report has been added to ResearchAndMarkets.com's offering.

The global skincare market was valued at 146.6 Bn$ in 2024 and is expected to reach 197.2 Bn$ by 2030, according to the Irish research firm, with growth of 5.1% from 2024 to 2030. 

The growth of the cosmetic skin care market is driven by several factors. Rising disposable incomes and the growth of the global middle class have broadened the consumer base ready to invest in high-end skin care products. The pervasive influence of social media and beauty influencers has amplified consumer awareness and interest in skincare, driving demand for the latest products and trends. Aging populations, particularly in developed countries, are looking for effective anti-aging solutions, driving demand for products targeting wrinkles, fine lines and age spots.

In addition, the rising prevalence of skin conditions due to pollution, stress and lifestyle factors has increased the need for specialized skin care treatments. Innovations in product formulation, packaging and marketing strategies, as well as the expansion of e-commerce platforms, have further stimulated market growth. These factors, combined with ongoing advances in dermatological science and consumer preferences for personalized, effective skincare solutions, are ensuring that the cosmetic skincare market continues to expand.

The ResearchAndMarkets report points out that ". Technological advances and scientific research have had a profound impact on the cosmetics industry, leading to the development of innovative and more effective products. The integration of biotechnology and dermatological research has enabled the creation of personalized skincare solutions tailored to the skin's individual needs. Breakthroughs in ingredient delivery systems, such as nanotechnology, have improved the efficacy of active ingredients, ensuring deeper penetration and better results. In addition, the rise of clean beauty and the demand for natural and organic products have driven brands to formulate skincare lines free from harmful chemicals, with an emphasis on safety and sustainability."

Photo: Aesthetic Journey / Pixabay

To put an end to dandruff

DandErase Givaudan

Givaudan Active Beauty presents DandErase, a botanical active designed to eradicate dandruff and restore scalp health. This molecule is produced by green fractionation from the petals of Crocus sativus L. (saffron), sustainably sourced in Morocco.

Dandruff is a widespread scalp condition. Malassezia overgrowth is a key factor in this condition, which results in oily yellow flakes, itching and, often, inflammation. 

Malassezia yeast is naturally present in the skin's microbiota, but environmental factors can upset the initial balance and trigger the appearance of dandruff.

Botanical active ingredient 100 % of natural origin, DandErase tackles both the root causes and symptoms of dandruff thanks to a complete mode of action: 

  • Malassezia growth inhibition
  • Reduced inflammation and erythema
  • Reduces itching and scalp discomfort
  • Restores the barrier function of the skin and scalp
  • Action to balance the microbiome for long-lasting anti-dandruff effects.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, clinical trials show a positive result with 95 % of dandruff reduction in three days for all participants. By rebalancing the scalp microbiome, it effectively soothes itching and inflammation while preventing rebound effects. Its benefits last beyond the treatment period, with dandruff continuing to diminish even two weeks after discontinuation. This long-lasting efficacy is attributed to its ability to stabilize the scalp interabiome and selectively target Malassezia.

Givaudan Active Beauty will present this new ingredient and its marketing concept S3D Terralogy at in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025.

Expanscience supports the Joséphine association

woman-3288365_1280

To mark International Women's Rights Day, Expanscience, through its Actifs Cosmétiques business, is announcing its support for the Joséphine association to help women in precarious situations.

A B Corp-certified company with a mission since 2021, Laboratoires Expanscience has been enhancing the value of the plant world by developing innovative natural cosmetic active ingredients since 1977. The company has decided to support the Joséphine association, France's leading network of solidarity-based beauty salons: 1 % of sales of its Pixalia active ingredient, a cosmetic ingredient designed for skin and hair care, will be donated by the company to the association each year.

For several years now, associations have been observing a worrying increase in the proportion of women in highly precarious situations. These situations have an impact on their health, and affect the self-confidence and self-esteem they need to achieve their personal and professional goals. Founded in 2006, the Joséphine association offers wellness treatments to women in precarious situations, to help them reintegrate into society and the workplace and regain control of their lives.

This first meaningful partnership for Expanscience's Actifs Cosmétiques business - which strives to promote global well-being for each individual - will help to support women in fragile situations, in order to help them achieve their full potential. empowerment.

Since the association was founded, over 11,000 women have been welcomed into the Josephine salons, contributing to their reintegration and emancipation.

"We are committed to making this partnership with the Joséphine association a long-term one, in order to provide long-term support to women in precarious situations, helping them to improve their self-confidence and self-esteem. This reflects our commitment to developing cosmetic active ingredients with a holistic approach, aiming to improve the well-being of body and mind."stresses Angéline Rocherieux, Cosmetic Active Ingredients Marketing Manager at Laboratoires Expanscience.

Nadège Moniez, Development Manager, Josephine Association: "At Joséphine, we believe that access to wellness care is a powerful lever for women's empowerment."

Photo: Social Butterfly / Pixabay

A biomimetic ceramide to preserve the scalp barrier

smile-2607299_1280

Croda Beauty Actives has unveiled Sphingo'HAIR Drypure, a unique long-chain fatty acid derived from bio-fermentation, ceramide NP, acting as a cement in the barrier structures of the scalp and hair.

Studies have shown that this active ingredient has a significant impact on scalp health by strengthening the skin's barrier function. It also increases scalp hydration, reduces desquamation and soothes inflammation. It also helps maintain the moisture balance of the hair fiber. It also smoothes hair cuticles and enhances shine and manageability.

"Preserving our body's natural complex defense mechanisms is the key to longevity.Croda reminds us. One of the first lines of defense is the physical, microbial and chemical barrier. This is particularly true for our skin and hair, which are highly exposed to external aggressors. Hair and scalp have similar barrier structures and form a highly interdependent ecosystem. Ensuring strong, healthy barriers is the basis for scalp well-being and hair protection."

Sphingo'HAIR Drypure contains 100 % natural origin according to ISO16128, is Cosmos approved and IECIC compliant.

Photo : StockSnap / Pixabay

Laboratoire Pyc to present its nutricosmetics innovations at Cosmoprof Bologna

Revolistic Collagen Laboratoire Pyc

Aix-en-Provence-based Laboratoire Pyc draws inspiration from nature to develop dietary supplements. At Cosmoprof Bologna (March 20-22, 2025), the company will unveil two new nutricosmetics formulas available under white label. These are Revolistic Collagen, the first orodispersible collagen, and Hair Bloom Ceramides, a totally plant-based hair food supplement formula. 

An orodispersible collagen

The first orodispersible collagen powder with a high concentration of di- and tripeptides, Revolistic Collagen is distinguished by its formulation. Its ultra-fine powder dissolves directly in the mouth for rapid absorption and optimal bioavailability. The collagen in Revolistic Collagen has a very low molecular weight (500 Dalton) and contains four times more bioactive peptides than standard collagen. With a concentration of 45 % in di- and tripeptides, compared with the usual 10 %. Three natural flavors are available: blackcurrant, vanilla and pear. According to its designers, a single 2 g stick a day is all that's needed for optimum effectiveness. 

Natural hair care

Hair Bloom Ceramides is a water-soluble powder dietary supplement formulated with plant extracts enriched with zinc and vitamin B8. This product targets scalp growth, strength and balance thanks to Ceramosides. Laboratoire Pyc reports that Ceramosides phytoceramides demonstrated their efficacy in just three months, with a 12 % increase in hair growth, a 97 % strengthening and a 12 % reduction in excess sebum.

Laboratoire PYC has been committed to this natural approach since 2017. The idea is to give pride of place to the active ingredients and let the rest of the ingredients serve either as a support (plant support), or to provide a pleasant, natural flavor.

Hair Bloom Ceramides includes no superfluous ingredients. Its composition is based on targeted active ingredients and natural carriers such as stevia and natural aromas. Its fruity and floral notes are based on an exclusive Herbal Bliss flavor. 

As with all Laboratoire Pyc formulas, these two new products can be customized to meet brand needs.

Photo taken from Laboratoire Pyc website.

Coverpla: worldwide exclusivity on seven Heinz Glas bottles

Coverpla - Heinz Glas

Coverpla designs, manufactures and distributes customizable packaging solutions (bottles, closures and pumps) for brands.

To ensure the longevity of its turnkey offer, and guarantee the quality and security of supply of the bottles it proposes, the Nice-based SME sources from the most renowned glassmakers, such as Pochet, Bormioli Luigi, Verescence and Heinz Glas.

Seven signature models

While Heinz Glas bottles have long been part of the Coverpla catalog, the glassmaker recently decided to give its partner exclusive sales rights for seven of its differently styled bottles (Jens, Juicy, Quadri, Style, Trek, Urban and Yoga). This selection lends itself perfectly to the mix & match of standard products offered by Coverpla.

Coverpla is now the brands' sole contact for these models. Available from stock in two formats (50 and 100 ml), these bottles are ready to play the magic of personalization!

Fedrigoni, EcoVadis Platinum Medal

Fedrigoni - ecovadis medal

The Fedrigoni Group, one of the world's leading players in specialty papers, self-adhesive materials and RFID solutions, has achieved an EcoVadis score of 90/100 (for the third year running) with a platinum medal for sustainability in 2024. 

With a score of 90/100, Fedrigoni has improved by 10 points on the previous year, and maintains its place in the top % ranking of the most virtuous companies.

This is due in particular to the results of its sustainable sourcing program, which has enabled 241 suppliers - through specific training and continuous improvement strategies - to increase their CSR score by an average of 4.5 points. Involving business partners upstream and promoting sustainable practices downstream is proving to be a winning recipe for the Italian group to generate shared value and gain a positive impact on the entire ecosystem.

EcoVadis plays a crucial role in Fedrigoni's trajectory towards achieving the 2030 objectives, by measuring performance in the areas of environment, labor and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement. 

With around 6,000 people in 28 countries and 25,000 products, Fedrigoni sells and distributes in 132 countries thanks in part to recent acquisitions. Sustainability permeates the Group's entire strategy, and it is committed to tracking progress in reducing CO₂ emissions, water consumption, waste management, accelerating sustainability-driven innovation, preventing accidents, promoting an inclusive and learning-friendly environment, and creating value with the communities with which it operates.

"Making Progess" is the company's approach. With transparency, third-party certified results and a long-term vision. By way of example, the Group has replaced single-use plastic with paper solutions, and designed self-adhesive label solutions to improve the recyclability of primary packaging on an industrial scale.

Cosmogen has designed Deinde's ultra-refreshing eye roller.

COSMOGEN - UCER SOLO - Baby Roller

Deinde is a preventative skincare brand that targets inflammation. It is formulated from naringin, the active ingredient of US biotech Debut, a company with full vertical integration capabilities, including ingredient discovery, cell culture, biofermentation, formulation, clinically evaluated scalable finished ingredients and brand creation.

Deinde has adopted Cosmogen's Baby Roller to accompany its smoothing eye cream.

After applying a few drops of the formula to the eye contour area, the ultra-refreshing eye roller can be used to massage the orbital area. It can also be used at any time of day to decongest and soothe the eye contour.

site-industries-cosmetiques Three metallic ball cosmetic applicators (pink, blue and white) each bearing the inscription "COSMOGEN". These tools are scattered on a white background, giving off an air of artistic flair reminiscent of a Brouillon automobile sketch.

Baby Roller is the ultimate pocket roller for massaging sensitive areas of the face. It is designed with a stainless steel ball - 316 L; ⌀15 mm - and a body is PP, also available in PP-PCR.

Cosmed strengthens the traceability and security of its over-the-counter certificates

certificate of free sale - Cosmed

The Certificate of Free Sale (CVL) is an official document required by the authorities of 69 countries outside the European Union as a condition for importing finished cosmetic products into their markets. The CVL issued by Cosmed, a trade association representing French cosmetics companies with 1030 members, certifies that the cosmetics mentioned comply with regulation (EC) n°1223/2009 and can therefore be marketed in the European Union.

To meet the growing challenges of transparency and security, Cosmed has adopted a new system that enhances the traceability and tamper-proofing of CVLs.

"With this innovative technology, integrating blockchain, each certificate can be authenticated instantly, on a smartphone, without any mobile application to download, thus limiting the risks of fraud and ensuring the integrity of documents throughout the export chain."says Cosmed.

Instantly authenticated by the authorities, Cosmed CVLs are forgery-proof.

The process is simplified for customs and health authorities, who can instantly verify with a QR code that the document presented corresponds to the original issued by Cosmed.

What's more, this innovation, based on Sorga, a low-power blockchain technology developed by MAP Emulsion, is part of an eco-responsible approach. Unlike traditional blockchain technologies, it has a reduced environmental impact, in line with Cosmed's commitment to sustainability.

"This major innovation represents an additional guarantee for our exporting companies, their international partners and local authorities.says Jean-Marc Giroux, President of Cosmed. By choosing Sorga, a French solution, we are affirming our commitment to digital sovereignty while meeting the traceability requirements of the global market."

Visual taken from the Cosmed website.

Packaging: Medicos, eco-responsible processes and products

Medicos - Melvita

Medicos is one of those French industrial SMEs that are doing well, and which do not hesitate to invest to modernize their equipment and expand their offer. Thanks to its four specialized sites, the company is in a position to meet the packaging needs of cosmetics players and to be a driving force behind proposals, in particular to help brands comply with the new PPWR regulations.

"As we enter the year 2025, it's a happy coincidence that the combined age of Medicos' four industrial units means we're celebrating our 300th anniversary! 100 years for the Izernore plant (formerly Mino Gaillard), 100 years for the Chassal plant (formerly Janvier), 60 years for the Milan plant (formerly CO.VE) and 40 years for the Rombach plant in Alsace (formerly Dinamic Emballages). "says Cédric Marmonier, President of Medicos.

Dinamic Emballages, a plasturgist specializing in the production of single and bi-material injected parts for the beauty, food and pharmaceutical industries, as well as technical parts, and equipped with highly automated processes, is the most recent acquisition of the Lyon-based group. This acquisition, formalized in 2024, enables the company to enrich its know-how and consolidate its beauty division.

An industrial group

Founded in 2002 with the acquisition of plastic injection company RR Plastiques, Medicos has gone from strength to strength, becoming a recognized industrial group in the packaging sector. Having divested its healthcare assets in 2018, it is now focusing on its beauty and food activities, positioning itself as a major player in plastic injection and drawn glass.

Medicos Beauty offers French and international brands a complete range of full-service products for the cosmetics, perfumery and make-up segments (jars, droppers, roll-ons, perfume caps, etc.). The Group masters the entire value chain, from product design to decoration. The synergy between its entities enables it to offer customized solutions. The beauty sector accounts for 68 % of its business.

The group's strengths: its industrial park. "We design customized special machines for our own products as well as for specific customer products. We develop in-line assembly and decoration machines. We have a project to extend the Medicos Chassal site in order to develop our machines for the whole Group. This involves an expansion program of over 800 m2 over 2025 afin order to pursue our in-house development of special machines and provide industrialization solutions as close as possible to our customers' needs."says site manager Elodie Perrot.

Process and product innovations

At the heart of Medicos' approach: process innovation within a CSR framework. The group has set up a vast development program for its automated machines, produced in-house, and integrates latest-generation equipment such as machine vision. Its energy consumption is monitored afin order to avoid any wastage, and rejects are reintegrated into processes.

Médicos also innovates on the product side. For example, the La Roche Posay roll-on dropper. The manufacturer has put its expertise in dosage at the service of the brand to design an innovative gesture, the roll-on tip providing comfort of use with the integrated cold effect massage.

The Group, which produces 40 % of standard packaging and 60 % of specific packaging, did not wait for the application of the European PPWR regulation (Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation) on the management of packaging and packaging waste to take action and establish a roadmap around the circular economy. " We create and strive to create packaging that is lighter in weight, refillable, contains recycled and recyclable materials. For example, since 2020 we have been developing a range of standard refillable or reusable lightweight jars that can contain recycled and recyclable materials. Today, 85% of the products in this range are made from recycled and recyclable materials. And our goal is to reach 100 %. This involves numerous qualifications, modifications to our tooling, process reviews and the mobilization of our teams. We also work hard to explain to our customers that they sometimes have to accept a slightly lower perceived quality.says site manager Denis Moiraud.

Designing eco-responsible packaging is also the result of partnerships with suppliers: "We open our doors to them, and they come along to try things out and watch the tests. Currently, for example, we're working with a raw material producer on a recycled PET, 100 % mechanical, developed in France. This requires concessions and work, a lot of time, energy and investment.continues Denis Moiraud. For plastic injection molding, we work with different types of materials: petro-sourced materials, mechanically recycled materials (grinding technology), chemically recycled materials (molecular recycling) and materials derived from biomass.

Recent product developments include an innovative Re-CliCK refill (a Medicos patent) adopted by Melvita of the L'Occitane group. Medicos also recently announced a collaboration between Medicos Beauty, IMCD Group (a responsible distributor of specialty chemicals and ingredients) and Eastman (a developer of specialty materials) to offer Cristal One Renew IM812, a recyclable material with up to 100 % of ISCC-certified recycled content. Perfect for thick-walled jars, this material - compatible with the RIC-1 recycling stream and manufactured with up to 100 % of molecular recycled content - offers, according to the packaging solutions manufacturer, glass-like clarity. 

Manufacturing facilities at four sites 
Plastic injection molding
- A fleet of 92 presses
- Integrated high-performance modules + IML
- Multi-cavity molds
Drawn glass
- 8 Vertical rotary machines
- Automated feeder
- Control cameras
Decoration
- Integrated decorations on plastic and glass
- MAC, Screen printing (on plastic and glass), pad printing, laser, lacquering
Completion
- 35 Automated machines
- 10 3D printing machines

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