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L'Oréal completes acquisition of Aesop

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The editorial staff
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L'Oréal announces that it has completed the acquisition of Aesop, a luxury beauty brand, in accordance with the conditions announced on April 3, 2023.

"On behalf of the group, I am delighted to welcome Aesop to the L'Oréal family, said Nicolas Hieronimus, Managing Director of the L'Oréal group. A unique combination of modernity, hedonism and ethical luxury, Aesop is an aspirational brand that makes the most of rising consumer trends. We look forward to continuing to leverage the brand's unique DNA and values to unlock its immense growth potential in China and beyond."

"We are delighted that Aesop is joining the L'Oréal Luxe division and I look forward to welcoming Michael O'Keeffe and his passionate teams to the L'Oréal family, to write together the new chapter of this iconic brand. said Cyril Chapuy, President of L'Oréal Luxe. We are confident that Aesop will join L'Oréal Luxe's club of 'billionaire brands', making a significant contribution to L'Oréal's future growth."

"We're very excited about this new cycle in Aesop's history. I am convinced that L'Oréal is the best partner to take the brand to new heights of success.said Michael O'Keeffe, CEO of Aesop. With the support and unrivalled expertise of L'Oréal, we will continue to develop and innovate to attract new customers and promote our brand internationally, while remaining true to our founding values, building on our brand and its distinctive heritage." 

"Under Natura &Co's leadership, Aesop has reached new heights and strengthened the brand's presence worldwide.said Fabio Barbosa, Managing Director of Natura &Co.. Striving for excellence, the brand has also improved its sustainable development practices. We express our gratitude and deep respect for the brand's management and its teams, who will remain dear to our hearts, and we wish Aesop all the best for this new chapter within the L'Oréal group."

Senior perfumer Vincent Ricord joins TechnicoFlor 

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The editorial staff
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Born into a family of perfumers from Grasse, Vincent Ricord, 44, grew up in Nice before moving to Paris. He now joins the French composition house TechnicoFlor. Interview.

Tell us about your background?

Everyone in my family, except my father, was in the industry, which made me dream. They'd talk about the smells they'd discovered on their travels. My mode of expression was more music or drawing. I was lucky enough to know that this profession existed. I learned by starting with an internship at Expressions Parfumées at the age of 19, where I was only supposed to stay a few weeks, but ended up staying for... 15 years! During my apprenticeship, I was able to discover all the trades involved in a composition house, while learning about raw materials and major accords, before becoming a young perfumer. I was able to formulate all kinds of products: eau de toilette/perfumes, cosmetics, personal care products, solid cosmetics, home fragrances, and all this under the watchful eye of great perfumers.

What are your favorite raw materials?

I don't have any, but some materials resonate with me in a more personal way, like the scent of my childhood décor: orange blossom and lavender, especially since I moved to Paris! I also love patchouli, which reminds me of a jazz singer, and the dazzling scents of the Middle East, where I was lucky enough to work: saffron, oud, papyrus, incense... Each ingredient takes me on a journey. You can't create a perfume if you don't dream about it; perfume is above all an emotion. Each essence is an opportunity to explore new creative fields.

Why did you choose to join TechnicoFlor?

What I immediately appreciated about TechnicoFlor was the family spirit. Coming from a family of perfumers, joining a family-run composition house makes perfect sense to me. The values of transmission, which I hold dear, are an integral part of the company's DNA. Beyond the family dimension, I was attracted by the energy of the teams and the company's commitment to the environment and society.

What's your mission?

As a committed perfumer, we must continue to transmit emotions while building the perfumery of the future, with challenges that are no longer the same as before: eco-responsibility. We have to create and produce in line with the challenges of today and tomorrow, without altering the sensoriality of our fragrances and the emotions they convey. TechnicoFlor has always been at the forefront of this field, and the Flor-Index, our eco-score, for example, measures the environmental and societal impact of fragrances, validated by Afnor certification.

What are your passions outside perfume?

I'm a music lover, I play guitar and bass, and I also paint a lot. I hesitated for a long time between perfumery and music, but today I continue to play for pleasure. As I'm naturally curious and lucky enough to have a creative profession, all the arts nourish me enormously. Whether in music, painting or perfumery, you try to compose: it's the same language.

How would you characterize your style?

I work on a wide variety of creative concepts, and I also respond to our customers' specifications. When people tell me they recognize my olfactory signature, it both pleases and frightens me. Redundancy in compositions scares me. I always try to provoke "accidents" in my creations so that they can appeal and create emotion. What fascinates me about formulation is the ability to transform an accident into an opportunity, to make harmonious what might otherwise offend the senses. One of the fragrances I've created that moves me is Eau Révée d'Ikar de Sysley, in which the singular freshness of lentisque leaves, the bittersweet effect of bitter orange and the sensuality of iridescent woods are intertwined.

What inspires you to compose?

What drives me when I create is associating an image with a chord, conceptualizing it. For example, a tuberose dipped in a glass of milk. Or a small frozen orange eaten frosted on a hot summer's day. The happiness of this frosted emotion is a strong emotion, and I'm going to put it in a scent, with a mint leaf if it's an eau de Cologne. The image creates the initial emotion. I love listening to projects and people and telling their stories in fragrance.

What are you working on at the moment?

I'm working on a hibiscus and fig accord, a macaroon-raspberry heart and patchouli "in a tuxedo": a mood note that is a digression from a perfume I found in my perfumer uncle's car in a Malongo coffee tin...

GM Group unveils the relaunch of its Keiji amenity line 

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The editorial staff
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Specializing in hospitality products, GM Group has relaunched one of its best-selling brands, Keiji, with an all-new line design and a focus on sustainability. 

For thousands of years, many civilizations have explored the secrets of perfumes and essential oils. This ancient knowledge, a source of natural well-being, is also known as aromatherapy and serves as the inspiration for the Keiji line of amenities. 

An oriental-inspired line rooted in nature

Keiji Mémoire des Sens is an elegant line of oriental-inspired aromatherapy, formulated with the highest quality ingredients from nature. The brand's striking red logo is inspired by traditional Asian seals. To emphasize the use of essential oils, products are embellished with illustrations of natural ingredients, each echoing the ancient art of traditional ink painting. 

The hair and body gel is enriched with essential oils of mint and eucalyptus, famous for their refreshing properties, while the shower gel is enriched with essential oils of juniper and coriander, known for their energizing and purifying properties. Rosemary and sage essential oils, known for their toning properties, are found in the 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner. To complete the bathing ritual, cedar and sandalwood essential oils are present in the body lotion. 

All are available in 40-ml formats, packaged in recycled plastic bottles. 

A 20 g exfoliating soap and a mild soap with bitter almond essential oils, and 35 g bath salts with chamomile and jasmine essential oils all available in 0 % plastic packaging are also part of the Keiji range. 

As part of GM Group's Care About Earth program, large-format 300 ml Ecopump dispensers are featured in the line, made from recycled plastics. The pumps are created using bio-sourced resin, mainly made from sugar cane. In this format, you can find hair and body gel, body lotion and hand soap enriched with Bitter Almond essential oil, renowned for its soothing benefits. Several secure wall-mounting options are available in combination with Ecopomps, which can be fixed to the wall with screws or double-sided adhesive tape. 

A 28 g bath pebble with luxurious flower essential oils completes the product range. 

The formulas in the Keiji hotel range are certified vegan, non-GMO (genetically modified organism) and gluten-free. These products contain up to 98 % of ingredients of natural origin. 

Care About Earth 

The Keiji line is fully in line with GM Group's Care About Earth program, which aims to reduce the environmental impact of its products and contribute to sustainability to protect the planet for many generations to come. As an eco-responsible amenity supplier, GM Group consistently prioritizes the use of plant-based materials, post-industrial or post-consumer recycled plastics and the sourcing of 100% renewable raw materials. By choosing the path of eco-design, Groupe GM offers hoteliers sustainable solutions and helps them steer their eco-responsible transition. 

GM Group President Laurent Marchand said: "Producing high-quality hotel creations for our customers and partners around the world has always been paramount to us. We understand the growing need for eco-friendly products and to create packaging that is not harmful to the environment. The eco-designed Keiji amenity range is entirely in line with our corporate beliefs and embodies our commitments to excellence and customer service at GM Group by providing our customers with luxurious amenities that reduce their overall impact."

A complete range of single-material wood packs

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The editorial staff
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Durable and versatile, Woodacity - The complete Quadpack 100 % wood family, suitable for all brands and applications.

A complete range, 100 % wood, with virtually no plastic parts: the Woodacity family from international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack has grown since the launch of the pioneering perfume cap in 2021. Solutions include award-winning caps that work without inner layers, and refillable packaging systems that can be easily disassembled. The complete collection now includes lipsticks, compact cases, bottles and caps for perfume bottles, lotion packs and tubes.

Denisa Stircea, Wood Category Manager at Quadpack, comments: "We're very proud to have created a collection of Woodacity solutions covering almost every packaging need over the past two years. Part of the motivation for creating Woodacity was to optimize the end-of-life solution for wood as much as possible - and that's exactly what we've done. Woodacity is all-natural, non-toxic and beautiful - it's impossible not to fall under its spell! What's more, our original hoods remain the best technology available for all-wood closure systems."

The Woodacity collection, in full expansion, now includes the following references:

  • Iconic Woodacity, a refillable lipstick in an all-wood case, developed with Aptar Beauty from its Iconic mechanism,
  • Woodacity Glass & Wood, the embodiment of elemental power, combining elegant wooden caps with Crystal Chorus glass bottles (4 ml-100 ml) and Skin-Up bottles with pumps (15 ml and 30 ml) from Quadpack,
  • Woodacity Legend, a refillable bottle featuring the patented Solo Twist system, with a modern look and feel and a large-format effect,
  • Woodacity Idol, a super-chic compact rechargeable case designed for both left- and right-handers, with a reusable pocket mirror,
  • Woodacity caps for lotion bottles, for bottles with standard 24/410 screw thread; for use with or without reducer, allowing consumers to pour directly from the bottle,
  • Woodacity caps for tubes, ideal for use with single-layer or aluminum tubes.

All Woodacity solutions are made from wood sourced from sustainably managed European forests, supplied with optional PEFC or FSC certification. They are designed, produced, assembled and decorated at the Quadpack Wood factory in Spain, which itself manufactures using renewable energies, while the temperature control and wood drying ovens are powered by a biomass boiler using production waste. 

Each reference is designed and tested in-house by Quadpack Wood's team of experts, with a number of patented solutions, including its innovative closing systems - Solo Twist, Solo Push, Solo Turn and Solo Snap, each used with an intuitive gesture.

While each Woodacity component features a unique grain, brands can choose to enhance it using a wide variety of decoration options, from laser engraving, to multi-layer lacquering, burnt wood effect and gold leaf application. Quadpack will soon be able to offer exciting new finishes, enabling Woodacity solutions to adapt to our customers' creativity.

Ultimately, Woodacity was designed to inspire: bespoke designs can be created for exclusive solutions in harmony with nature.

Coverpla supports Essential Parfums' move to refillable products

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The editorial staff
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When a young brand becomes famous for its commitment to reinventing haute parfumerie by making it accessible and eco-responsible, Coverpla makes a point of accompanying it in the development of its packaging. From a fixed-ring Gala bottle, originally adopted by the brand, Coverpla has turned it into a refillable model, driving its industrial transformation.

In 2018, Essential Parfums broke new ground with its first line of eco-responsible fragrances, each signed by a major name in French perfumery. This range of fragrances features affordable bottles whose minimalist design lets the juice and its perfumer take center stage. 

From the outset, Géraldine Archambault, the brand's founder, set her sights on the Gala bottle in a unique 100 ml format. Designed by Coverpla, it is manufactured by Italian glassmaker Luigi Bormioli. 

A big leap towards rechargeable

In keeping with the eco-design approach so dear to the company, the eight fragrances in the collection are now being transferred to a bottle that the designer hopes will be "infinitely refillable". 

The result is the new Gala 100 ml with screw neck (CV15). Coverpla piloted its industrial development with its glassmaking partner Bormioli Luigi. The brand has also designed a series of 150-ml aluminum refills to be purchased in stores or online.

"We're proud to have been able to solve our customer's equation: switch to refillable functionality without creating a break with the bottle's identity to which consumers are loyal."comments Florence Ghilardi, the company's Sales Director. 

"Without the invaluable help and professionalism of the Coverpla teams, Essential Parfums could never have taken off so well! This business model is unique for any brand wishing to launch.adds Géraldine Archambault, the brand's founder.

Aptar Beauty's new aerosol range with twist-to-lock technology

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The editorial staff
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Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing systems, has created a new range of aerosol dispensers that do not require a cap, thanks to twist-to-lock technology. Ringo, Nora and Tina - whose names pay tribute to iconic artists - expertly dispense mousse, gel and spray formulas, covering all the main aerosol applications. The range offers premium aesthetics, e-commerce compatibility and recycled material options.

Twist-to-lock technology eliminates the need for a cover, and therefore the risk of losing it in the wild. This makes for greater convenience and reduces the number of detachable parts. Operation is simple and intuitive: the diffusers are locked and unlocked by a simple rotary movement. An audible click indicates when they are correctly closed. The locking and unlocking system also limits the risk of breakage or leakage, making this range compatible with e-commerce and safe to take with you wherever you go. What's more, the anti-slip ridges ensure a firm grip in dry or damp areas, such as in the shower.

These three diffusers feature an ultra-modern design, with simple, clean lines and a matte finish. Their two-part composition allows a two-tone design for greater creative freedom. Taken as a whole, they are imbued with minimalist elegance. Ringo, Nora and Tina can be supplied with a POM-free mechanism made from 100 % PCR (post-consumer recycled plastic).

This range of twist-to-lock aerosols is compatible with a ball valve, a vertical valve or a pouch valve, with two different skirt lengths (short and long).

Production for these broadcasters will begin in 2024.

Suitable for shaving and styling products, as well as shower gel and foam, Ringo will be available with two different types of nozzle, one for foam, the other for gel.

Nora features a small, elegant nozzle for gel application. This aerosol is designed for use with shaving products or shower gel.

Tina is a spray dispenser suitable for formulas such as hairspray, deodorant and sun or body sprays.

Ban on animal testing: Cruelty Free Europe dissatisfied

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A woman works in a drafting laboratory.

According to Cruelty Free Europe, the European Commission is ignoring calls from French citizens to maintain the ban on animal testing for cosmetics.

The animal protection NGO points out that the European Citizens' Initiative (ECI) "Save Cruelty Free Cosmetics - Commit to a Europe Without Animal Testing" has been signed by 248,070 people in France.1 - more than four times the national target - and by 1.2 million signatories across Europe. 

According to the organization, "the ban on animal testing for cosmetics, introduced in 2013, has been scandalously gutted, despite the Commission's commitment to a long-term plan to phase out animal testing for all chemicals as part of its formal response to the ECI."

Cruelty Free Europe recalls that an ingredient may be used exclusively in cosmetic products, such as make-up, shampoo, moisturizer, soap, perfume and toothpaste, or in other products.2Animal testing is always required to verify the safety of a chemical handled by industrial workers or likely to be released into the environment, in accordance with the European chemicals regulation Reach (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals).

And he adds: "Worryingly, the proposed updates to Reach indicate that animal testing for chemicals is set to increase dramatically over the next few years."

ICE, also backed by global beauty and personal care companies The Body Shop and Dove, was the seventh to pass the one million verified signatures threshold when it was confirmed in January that 1,217,916 people had called for an end to the outdated and unreliable use of animals in cosmetics and chemical testing.

In June 2020, a Savanta Comres3 showed that the ban on animal testing for cosmetic products is enjoying massive new support. It revealed that almost three quarters (74 %) of EU citizens believe that animal testing for cosmetics and ingredients is unacceptable under any circumstances. In the poll, 75 % of French people believe that animal testing for cosmetics and ingredients is unacceptable in all circumstances.

"While we welcome positive action to replace the use of animals in chemical experiments and testing, it's outrageous that the cosmetics testing ban we fought so hard for, and which European citizens voted for, is being gutted. The European Commission has ignored the demands of 1.2 million people and condemned more animals to unnecessary suffering in the name of beauty. European citizens have made it clear that animal testing has no place in modern society, whether for cosmetics or any other product, said Michelle Thew, Managing Director of Cruelty Free Europe. Consumers and the beauty industry want an end to animal testing for cosmetics, and it's time for the European Commission to listen to its citizens. We're asking consumers to contact their MEPs or local parliamentary representatives to make sure their voice is heard, and to let them know that animal testing for cosmetics must end.4. Together, we can put an end to suffering."

1. https://europa.eu/citizens-initiative/initiatives/details/2021/000006_en

2. The European Commission's official report on ECI states: "[f]or chemicals that are not exclusively used in cosmetics, animal testing is allowed... to meet the requirements of REACH... registrants of chemicals exclusively used in cosmetics may need to perform animal testing to meet the requirement for worker and environmental risk assessment under REACH.... it is not yet considered sufficient to carry out safety assessments for human health and the environment without any animal testing, due to the lack of accepted alternative methods".

3. Savanta ComRes, on behalf of Cruelty Free Europe, surveyed 5,653 adults over the age of 18 in twelve EU member states (Germany, France, Italy, Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Portugal, Denmark and Croatia) from June 9 to 19, 2020.

4. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/meps/en/home

October, pink ribbon month for Perlucine

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of lip balm on a sandy beach.

Breast cancer is the most common cancer in France, and the leading cause of cancer-related death in women. Screening is no longer taboo, and it can save lives.

Perlucine, the marine hygiene and cosmetics brand from the Aquatonale laboratory, is taking advantage of the Pink October awareness campaign to promote its "100 % clean" deodorant powder.

The aim is to raise consumer awareness from an early age, giving them the opportunity to adopt good purchasing habits while protecting the planet.

Perlucine makes a donation to research. Some 10 % of the deodorant's sales will be donated to an association fighting breast cancer.

Team Perlucine will be taking part in the "Octobre Rose en Pays de Redon" running race on Sunday, October 22, 2023 in Redon, Ille-et-Vilaine.

Perlucine, in brief :

  • Water- and preservative-free powder care
  • Aluminum salt-free
  • 100 % ingredients of natural origin
  • Effective all day long
  • Prevents the formation of odour-causing bacteria
  • Environmentally friendly
  • Balances skin flora
  • Respects the microbiome and lets the skin breathe
  • Available in refill (for use with Natpack shell-based shaker).

Symrise Fine Fragrance perfumes the Istituto Marangoni Paris fashion show

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A woman sits on a sofa.

For the Istituto Marangoni Paris annual fashion show held on July 7, 2023, Symrise offered guests an immersive olfactory experience. Drawing on the creations of fashion students, ten perfumers from the Fine Fragrance division imagined unique scents to create an unprecedented sensory journey.

On July 7, the top ten students in the Fashion Design program at Istituto Marangoni Paris unveiled their personal projects at a fashion show, a much-anticipated annual event for the fashion and media industries. To support this key moment in their professional and academic careers, these young designers - selected by a jury of professionals - benefited from the collaboration and expertise of Symrise's Fine Fragrance division.

For several months, ten of the company's perfumers - Margherita Carini, Alexandra Carlin, Émilie Coppermann, Philippine Courtière, Pierre Guéros, Suzy Le Helley, Alienor Massenet, Annick Menardo, Maurice Roucel and Isaac Sinclair - each worked closely with one of these students to find out what inspirations had guided them in their creative process. Based on these exchanges, Symrise's perfumers proposed a unique fragrance in keeping with their story.

A dialogue towards limitless creation

By fusing the art of fashion with the captivating power of fragrance, the House of Fragrance creates long-term bridges between the professions of luxury craftsmanship, keeping abreast of tomorrow's trends while continuing to nurture the creativity of its perfumers.

"More than a collaboration, it's a generational dialogue between creators and creators with Istituto Marangoni. This partnership opens the way to infinite creation, with no other constraint than that of exchange, and enables us to stimulate and encourage the creativity of our perfumers".says Thomas Lalague, Vice-President Fine Fragrance EMEA.

With a view to passing on and sharing know-how, the composition house is committed to a new generation of designers. This collaboration is the starting point for a lasting partnership between Symrise and Istituto Marangoni. From the start of the 2023 academic year, the school will offer a program dedicated to perfumery and cosmetics, particularly in Paris, where Symrise will provide training in the discovery of the world of olfaction.

"We are delighted with this partnership with Istituto Marangoni, which sounds like a return to our roots for Symrise, which has long enjoyed privileged relationships with schools in Italy. Thanks to its Italian creative DNA and global presence, Istituto Marangoni embodies the future of creation in fashion, art and design. The values of transmission and sharing are dear to Symrise, and we are honored to be able to put our expertise at the service of a new generation".explains Véronique Ferval, Global Senior Vice-President, Fine Fragrance Creation.

Photo from the video produced for the event: https://youtu.be/2jk-KvFF4S0?si=FtC6NGoFN2Kwcv5A

Groupe Berkem signs an agreement for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in Turkey

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A boat near a mosque.

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces the signature of an agreement with Eigenmann & Veronelli, an international solutions provider in the field of specialty chemicals and food ingredients, for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in Turkey. 

Eigenmann & Veronelli has a strong position and expertise in Turkey and will extend the solutions it offers to customers, accelerating the Berkem Group's growth in the personal care market.

 This new distribution agreement confirms the Berkem Group's commitment to strengthening its international presence via specialized distributors in the cosmetics and nutraceutical markets for its plant-based ingredients. 

In recent years, the Turkish cosmetics industry has recorded strong annual growth, including 20 % in 2018. Domestic demand for cosmetic items continues to grow, fueled both by rising incomes and changing consumption patterns among women, but also men, who have been increasingly affected by the cosmetics market in recent years. 

France, Turkey's No. 1 supplier in 2017, enjoys a particularly high profile in the sector, enabling French brands to benefit from excellent positioning with Turkish consumers, who appreciate the quality, prestige and renown of "made in France "*.

Éric Moussu, Sales Director of Groupe Berkem, comments: " We are delighted to be addressing the Turkish cosmetics market through our new partner Eigenmann & Veronelli, and we are continuing our efforts to establish quality partnerships, enabling us to offer the cosmetics market our natural and biosourced ingredients, and to bring naturalness to these booming sectors. Turkey's geostrategic position as a hub offers excellent growth prospects and significant potential for players like Groupe Berkem." 

Mauro Avidano, Sales Director of Eigenmann & Veronelli, adds: "We are continually committed to providing solutions that meet the ever-changing needs of customers and suppliers, and to supporting the sustainable development of businesses by offering natural and organically sourced ingredients. With this agreement, the Berkem Group and E&V will benefit from a strategic partnership that will enable them to grow in the personal care market in Turkey."*

*Source: data from BusinessFrance

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