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Rethinking waste management and overproduction

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman browses cosmetics on her phone.

Waste and overproduction are among the issues facing the beauty and cosmetics industry. 

Avery Dennison's report "Missing billions: the true cost of supply chain waste" reveals that over 10 % of beauty products with an estimated value of $4.8 billion are wasted in supply chains. 6.2 % of discarded goods are the result of overproduction, while 4 % of inventory is discarded due to spoilage or deterioration of the merchandise. Unsurprisingly, this is a growing concern for brands, which could be losing up to 2.8 % of their annual profits.

Another important criterion to consider is the environmental impact of cosmetic waste from shampoos, lotions, deodorants and other body care products. Today, plastic is responsible for over 120 billion units of packaging produced each year by the cosmetics industry, the vast majority of which cannot be recycled. According to an OECD report, only 9 % of plastic waste is recycled worldwide. This rate is expected to rise to 17 % by 2060.

According to Avery Dennison's survey of 60 cosmetics companies in the USA, UK, China, France and Japan, 23% of brands' environmental impact comes from their supply chain activities.

Over three-quarters (77 %) of those surveyed currently track waste in their supply chain. However, 18 % of them cited lack of visibility and transparency between trading partners as the main barrier to their supply chain resilience.

The use of RFID technology is a solution that helps brands reduce waste in the supply chain. It creates a unique digital identity for each product, linking the physical with the digital. It provides valuable information to enable consumers to make better decisions, particularly in terms of transparency and carbon footprint.

Thanks to recent technological developments, RFID is better suited to labeling small items, liquid containers or products with metallic markings. 

RFID offers an extra level of authenticity and traceability throughout a product's lifecycle, from manufacture to shelf and beyond. It makes it easier to identify packaging and its contents for recycling programs, or to inform consumers that no unwanted ingredients, such as palm oil, are present in the article.

The atma.io connected products cloud helps brands achieve their zero-waste goals throughout the supply chain. Currently, over 28 billion items are managed by the atma.io platform in the apparel, retail, food and healthcare sectors. 

The atma.io real-time carbon impact analysis tool also provides brands with information on data concerning the carbon footprint of their products, including Scope 3 emissions and beyond. This is a powerful new tool that captures data at every stage of a product's journey, from raw material to consumer, and can help companies comply with the forthcoming European Digital Product Passport (DPP) regulation.

The real-time waste elimination tool atma.io uses artificial intelligence and machine learning to analyze and communicate supply chain anomalies and inefficiencies. This includes information on overdue product movements at pallet level, or even on isolated items in a warehouse that are about to perish. These features enable brands to take swift, proactive action to improve supply chain efficiency, minimize product loss and provide sufficient inventory to meet customer demands.

This versatile technology helps find relevant solutions to reduce waste and overproduction. By leveraging these digital identification solutions, brands can guarantee better stock visibility, increased durability and improved profitability.

Pierre Fabre consolidates its expertise in dermatology by creating an international database

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman wearing a black and white striped top.

To mark the 25the At the World Congress of Dermatology (WCD), held in Singapore from July 4 to 7, Pierre Fabre's Patient Relations Department presented the ALL project, a large-scale survey, the largest ever carried out in dermatology.

This project, launched at the end of 2022 with the help of Emma, aims to collect data on all skin types (ALL Skins), all skin diseases (ALL Dermatoses) and all phototypes (ALL Colors) in order to build the largest international private database.

Some 50,552 people from the adult populations of 20 countries (representing over 50 % of the world's population) on five continents answered the 65 ALL project questions.

The main themes addressed relate to the prevalence and impact of pathologies, but also to the behaviors, care pathways and needs of patients affected by one or more dermatoses such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea or vitiligo (see Appendix 1).

The strength of this study lies in the considerable scope of the data collected, and their representativeness: respondents were drawn from samples proportional to the population of each country (see Appendix 2), enabling a highly reliable analysis of needs on a global scale, by geographical territory. 

The ALL database has been built with results analyzed over time (longitudinal analysis), over a five-year period (2023-2027). The 3.3 million data points will be used to identify the information essential to a better understanding of patients' experiences.

"The creation of this database, exceptional in its geographical coverage, confirms our commitment to working alongside healthcare professionals worldwide to help improve the quality of life of patients suffering from skin pathologies. Better understanding their expectations will enable us to orientate our way of working and innovate to better support them in their dermatological care.said Núria Perez Cullel, Medical and Patient/Consumer Relations Director at Pierre Fabre.

More than one person in three suffers from a skin disease, yet health and prevention policies do not consider dermatology to be a public health priority. The ALL project aims to provide a global overview of the prevalence of major skin diseases and their consequences, in order to raise awareness among all stakeholders. Patients suffering from dermatological diseases need more support, and it is essential to succeed in convincing public authorities to attach greater importance to dermatoses in prevention programs. 

This unique project has already won the support of internationally renowned opinion leaders: Professor Jean Hilaire Saurat of the University of Geneva for acne, Professor Gil Yosipovitch of the University of Miami, for pruritus, Professors Henry LIM of the University of Detroit and Khaled Ezzedine, dermatologist at APH Paris, for photoprotection, Professor Julien Seneschal, dermatologist at Bordeaux University Hospital for vitiligo and Professor Marie Aleth Richard, dermatologist at APH Marseille and former president of the SFD.

Data from the ALL study will also be shared with patient associations to help them make their case to the general public, healthcare professionals and the authorities. Seven patient associations have already been involved in this process in France and abroad.

"For healthcare professionals, the ALL project is unique. Thanks to its methodology, it will enable us to describe for the first time the perceived prevalence of pruritus worldwide, regardless of patients' ethnicity, gender, age or region!" said Professor Gil Yosipovitch, Director of the Miami Itch Center (Dr. Phillip Frost Dept. of Dermatology, Miller School of Medicine, Miami USA).

Appendix 1:
List of subjects studied

Acne, psoriasis, rosacea, eczema, lentigo, skin cancers, vitiligo, hair and nail disorders, wounds/healing, pain and pruritus, aesthetic procedures, oral care disorders, sun protection. 

Appendix 2:
Sample sizes by country
5000 people in China; 5000 people in the USA; 4001 people in Brazil; 4001 people in Italy; 4000 people in France; 4000 people in Germany; 4000 people in Spain; 3000 people in India; 2500 people in Canada; 2500 people in Mexico; 2500 people in Poland; 2500 people in South Korea; 2000 people in Australia; 1000 people in Denmark; 1000 people in Israel; 1000 people in Portugal; 1000 people in South Africa; 750 people in the United Arab Emirates; 500 people in Kenya; 300 people in Senegal.

A compact 96-channel benchtop pipetting system

site-industries-cosmetiques A tablet with a microscope attached for automatic drawing.

Mettler Toledo introduces the first portable 96-channel Rainin MicroPro benchtop pipetting system. 

MicroPro simplifies and streamlines work on 96- and 384-well microplates. 

Compact, affordable and easy to use, this system connects via Bluetooth to a touch-sensitive control system offering an intuitive, user-friendly experience with all features and functions at your fingertips.

Simplifies workflows

Thanks to its many features, the Rainin MicroPro improves reproducibility of results and reduces handling errors. Its multiple standard and advanced pipetting modes enable faster, higher-quality workflows.

Unique

With a height of just over 30 cm and a width of 19 cm, MicroPro is, according to Mettler Toledo, the smallest 96-channel pipetting system on the market. It frees up space on a laboratory bench. Its 5 kg weight makes it the only truly portable system.

Despite its compact size, the MicroPro has two platter settings for enhanced productivity. It also boasts a clear, bright, high-resolution color user interface, making it a pleasure to use.

Customized protocols 

Customized protocols can be created with ease, while sequences of instructions and liquid handling steps can be composed and recorded to meet the exact requirements of the moment.

Givaudan announces its new upcycled ingredient: Strawberry Alcoholate Orpur

site-industries-cosmetiques A close-up of a red strawberry with water droplets.

Givaudan's Orpur collection was created in 2000 with the aim of exploiting the potential of iconic natural raw materials in perfumery. 

"Strawberry Alcoholate Orpur", an ingredient created from strawberry juice manufacturing waste, makes its debut in the collection!

Perfumer Marypierre Julien and Natural Marketing Manager Eléa Noyant introduced Givaudan's newest upcycled fragrance ingredient on Instagram.

"Having access to natural 100 % fruits opens up the perfumer's palette and allows for much more explosive creativity in the initial notes. It brings a lot of naturalness and juiciness to a fragrance".says Marypierre Julien.

"This ingredient comes from the fruit juice industry. Thanks to this combination of flavors, fragrances, upcycling and new innovation techniques, we are now able to produce alcohol-soluble extracts that can be used for perfumes.explains Eléa Noyant.

"Strawberry is a very versatile product. It works very well as an eau de toilette, but it also works as a candle. It brings a very juicy and very green and sparkling note to the top. It goes very well with other fruits. It's also very floral.explains Marypierre Julien.

Perfume plants in the spotlight

site-industries-cosmetiques A pink rose with green leaves in the foreground.

In 2020, Lancôme acquired Domaine de la Rose, in Grasse. Today, this seven-hectare site is dedicated to the organic polyculture of a dozen varieties of perfume plants, including Centifolia rose, tuberose, jasmine and iris.

The estate will open its doors to the public for the next Heritage Days, on September 16 and 17, 2023.

"The Domaine de la Rose is a place for sharing, preserving and celebrating natural and cultural know-how related to perfume.says Lancôme.

A guided tour will reveal the history of the estate - where perfume plants are grown using traditional polyculture methods - an educational distillery and the "Maison Rose", an eco-designed building with original architecture housing a perfume organ.

As owner, bio-agriculturalist, producer and perfumer, Lancôme has demonstrated its attachment to Grasse with this estate.

Lubrizol offers a new rheology modifier

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's hand holds a bottle of Lubrizol cream.

Carbopol SC-800 is part of Lubrizol's Carbopol family of polymers.

Indicated for gentle, sulfate-free cleansing formulations, this polymer is a rheology modifier for gentle, sulfate-free formulations, shower gels, shampoos and facial cleansers. 

"Carbopol SC-800 polymer shows the best thickening efficiency, clarity and suspension properties in studies comparing it to other hydrophobic modified polymers. This allows formulators to create unique aesthetics in their skin cleansing formulas, including the suspension of natural pearls, scrubs and other cleansing elements."says Lubrizol Life Science Beauty.

According to the company, studies on foam generation have also shown that the polymer has no negative impact on foam quality, either in terms of the volume of foam generated or its morphology.

Global Bioenergies revises its ambitions upwards

site-industries-cosmetiques Two tanks displaying the "global bioenergies" logo in a draft car setting.

Global Bioenergies, a specialist in the conversion of plant resources into chemical compounds used in many cutting-edge fields such as cosmetics and energy, has announced an upward revision of its industrial ambitions and has decided to adjust its roadmap to focus from now on a project for a plant with greater production capacity than the ViaViridia plant, in order to meet the expectations of its industrial, commercial and financial contacts. 

Sized to produce 10,000 tonnes of isobutene and derivatives per year (compared with 2,000 tonnes in the previous project), the plant will target the cosmetics market and then the sustainable aviation fuel market, for which Global Bioenergies has just obtained ASTM certification.

Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies, comments: " We have delivered the first orders, and our first-half sales total 2.4 million euros. Guided by the current trend towards accelerated renewables, the strong market pull in this area, and technical advances in our direct process, we are modifying our roadmap. The commercial activities of the Pomacle unit, which certainly generate sales but have a low associated margin, are no longer a priority. We are now concentrating all our efforts on the construction of this larger plant, scheduled to come on stream at the end of 2027. At the same time, we are already starting to project our technology in other geographies and with other raw materials with international industrial groups."

For L'Oréal, the largest shareholder in Global Bioenergies via its investment fund Bold (Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development), this high-capacity plant project reflects the environmental challenges and commitments made as part of its L'Oréal for the Future program. 

Ana Kljuic, Vice President R&I L'Oréal for the Future & Green Science adds: "Our commitment by 2030 is to reach 95 % of bio-sourced ingredients, derived from abundant minerals or circular processes in our formulas. This new ambition for Global Bioenergies will make bio-sourced isobutene derivatives accessible at competitive prices to the cosmetics markets and, beyond that, enable everyone to play an active part in the environmental transition."

Global Bioenergies will publish a schedule of plant design and construction milestones by the end of fiscal 2023.

Biolie announces Biolime, an upcycled lime extract 

site-industries-cosmetiques A recycled Biolime fruit with water droplets on it, as Biolie promotes their lime extract.

Thanks to its patented zero-waste enzymatic extraction process, Biolie offers Biolime, a Cosmos-certified aqueous extract of lime that acts like a shield to protect skin cells exposed to pollution while boosting their metabolism.

"This ingredient helps fight urban pollution on the skin. At 1%, Biolime fights 100 % of DNA damage and stimulates ATP production of 30 %."says Biolie.

A video shows how to formulate a refreshing anti-pollution gel:

YouTube video

Other ingredients are presented in this video:

  • Pyr'O, a Cosmos-certified upcycled pear extract, is a sustainable alternative to water in formulations. According to Biolie, tests have shown that its antioxidant power is comparable to that of vitamin C, and that it can help combat skin ageing!
  • Hydroblue, a Cosmos-approved extract obtained from spirulina and giving a natural blue color to water-based formulations or emulsions.

Cellcosmet: a new generation of cellular skincare, a subsidiary in the United States 

site-industries-cosmetiques A set of cosmetic products on a red background with a touch of auto scramble.
Cellcosmet Gen 2.0 Product Offerings. Products pictured left to right include: Ultra Vital, Sensitive, Ultra Vital Light, Cellular Eye Contour Cream, and UltraCell Intensive.

Cellap Laboratoire, home of the Swiss luxury brands Cellcosmet and Cellmen, is expanding into the United States with the establishment of a Cellap Laboratory Americas based in New York.

"The main ambition of Cellcosmet's founder was to create the most effective skin care products to revitalize the skin with the highest standards of quality. Our philosophy is based on innovation, quality, product safety, Swissness and results. By introducing Cellcosmet in the United States, our aim was to continue bringing this level of excellence to new consumers. We aim to expand our presence in the luxury skincare market through e-commerce, high-end spas, hotels, clinics and high-end department stores. At Cellcosmet, we value our community and are delighted to bring the quintessence of Swiss cosmetic science to the United States."explains Managing Director Tancrède Amacker.

Last year, Cellcosmet's scientific teams introduced a progressive alliance of two technologies: cell extracts and microbiome science. With this innovation as a catalyst, Cellcosmet introduced optimized formulations of its cellular skincare lines for men and women, containing the next generation (Gen 2.0) of its signature ingredient, CytoPep Cellular Extracts, and a new postbiotic complex. Cellcosmet continues to work on its formulas to revitalize the skin, minimize the visible traces left by time, and now protect and preserve the skin's microbiome. 

"While DNA is the code of life, proteins and peptides are the mechanism of life. Infused with multiple peptides and proteins, and rich in collagen and other skin structural proteins, CytoPep cellular extracts are the lifeblood behind skin health and rejuvenation. CytoPep cellular extracts help stimulate energy metabolism and increase cellular energy in skin cells, particularly mitochondria, to improve skin visibility and health through natural skin cell renewal and strengthen skin barrier function. This new generation of products combined with Postbiotics Complex and CytoPep cellular extracts, which we have developed to preserve the balance and diversity of the cutaneous microbiota, is proven to visibly optimize skin revitalization."explains Jérémie Soeur, Chief Science Officer.

Postbiotics Complex is made up of three ferments of marine origin which, when added to the cellular skincare formula, help to preserve and enhance skin quality. The first ferment, composed of complex molecules, acts as a protective film, shielding the skin from blue light, improving elasticity and maintaining the skin's barrier function. The other two ferments are effective in visibly lifting and firming the skin, revealing the complexion's true radiance. They also help the skin defend itself against certain environmental stress factors.

Two other rigorously selected ingredients, OleoComplex and HydraProtect Film Complex, are contained in the new Cellcosmet Gen 2.0 formulas. These additions help the skin maintain optimal hydration for a skin barrier function that effectively protects the face against the aggressive factors of daily life, including pollution and stress.

As part of this new era, Cellcosmet also offers a new sensorial experience by enhancing the texture and fragrance of its cellular skin creams. The fast-penetrating, non-greasy formulas are silky to the touch and leave skin incredibly soft. The citrus fragrance is enhanced by floral and musky notes, for a light, fresh and elegant scent on the skin.

Coty renews its licensing partnership with Adidas

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman jogs along a sidewalk, past a draft car.

American perfume and cosmetics giant Coty announces that it has renewed its licensing agreement with Adidas.

Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty, said: "I am delighted that we have signed a new agreement as part of our long-standing partnership with Adidas, the global premium sports brand. Adidas is perfectly positioned to capitalize on the new wellness and athleisure beauty trend among today's consumers. Over the past few months, we have successfully increased the value of Adidas body care, offering products focused on enhancing credibility in sports and skincare. With the launch of the Adidas Active Skin and Mind range, we are positioning Adidas as a premium body care line with premium ingredients and sustainable packaging. Consumers have responded very positively to this launch, and we look forward to building on this momentum with innovations and new ranges to drive growth in new and existing markets in the future."

The partnership between Adidas and Coty has focused on the intersection of personal care, wellness, sport and sporting lifestyle, with research and innovation in areas such as the impact of fragrance on sporting performance. The ambition to remain at the forefront of personal care continues with the new Active Skin & Mind range and its use of "superior" active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid complex, and more sustainable sulfate-free formulas to enhance performance.

Coty and Adidas' shared commitment to sustainable development remains central to their extended agreement, as demonstrated by the development of the Active Skin & Mind range.

Building on the successful launch of the Active Skin & Mind range in Europe, Coty is developing the brand in China. Active Skin & Mind has partnered with Chinese snowboarding gold medalist Su Yiming as a brand ambassador.

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