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L'Oréal and Verily launch a major study on skin and hair health

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L'Oréal and Verily, an Alphabet subsidiary specializing in precision healthcare, announce the launch of "My Skin & Hair Journey", a multi-year study that will enable researchers to better understand the biological, clinical and environmental factors contributing to skin and hair health over time.

The "My Skin & Hair Journey" study will rely on the participation of thousands of American women, and will gather unprecedented information on their perceptions and experiences of skin and hair health, analyzing in particular the impact of each woman's lifestyle, environment, well-being and beauty routines. Women aged between 18 and 70, from a variety of backgrounds and with different skin and hair types, are invited to take part in the study by privately sharing their personal experiences of skin and hair health.

Among the participants, some will also be invited to take part in complementary tests to identify biomarkers (unique biological signatures) enabling early detection or prevention of skin diseases, before they take hold. L'Oréal will draw on the lessons learned from this field survey to develop precise, innovative beauty offers that meet the skin and hair health objectives and needs of all consumers.

"We're very excited about this venture with Verily, the world leader in precision health technologies. This is the first time a study of this scale has been launched by a cosmetics group for the beauty industry. Our work will go beyond the skin, as part of our research into longevity, said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology, L'Oréal. This study could go so far as to unravel the mysteries of skin and hair health on an individual scale. In the future, it could serve as the basis for the development of precision beauty innovations with a level of personalization never before achieved."

"This program combines L'Oréal's scientific knowledge with Verily's expertise in technology and clinical science, said Stephen Gillett, CEO of Verily. Thanks to this multifaceted partnership, we aim to bring significant innovation by analyzing this data for better precision health for skin and hair."

L'Oréal has over a century's experience in research and development. What's more, its strong commitment to open innovation with its partners means it can more rapidly acquire knowledge that promotes the health of consumers' skin and hair. The Group has also extended its expertise in advanced research and innovation to precision beauty for everyone, drawing on synthetic biology, green science and Beauty Tech. The aim is to develop more personalized products and services, responding to the varied profiles, needs and aspirations of consumers worldwide.

"Skin health cohorts play a crucial role in elucidating the complex link between the wide range of biomarkers and their effects on skin health, said Guive Balooch, worldwide managing director in charge of augmented beauty and open innovation at L'Oréal. Regular follow-up of the women taking part in the study will enable us to observe changes, identify risk factors and develop personalized recommendations to improve skin well-being and health. This broader understanding contributes to the development of more precise and inclusive skin care approaches for everyone's needs."

In 2022, L'Oréal and Verily announced a multi-year strategic partnership and scientific collaboration to advance precision healthcare. As part of this work, this year L'Oréal also presented Hapta, an automated make-up applicator for people with reduced arm or hand mobility, powered by Verily technology.

The "My Skin & Hair Journey" field survey for skin and hair health is currently open to participants in the USA, and is due to be rolled out internationally. 

Photo: ©My Skin & Hair Journey
https://www.projectbaseline.com/studies/skin-hair-journey

L'Oréal presents new studies and ingredients at the World Congress of Dermatology 

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At the World Congress of Dermatology (WCD) in Singapore, L'Oréal presented its vision for the future of dermatology, unveiling its new research and innovations in the field of skin health.

L'Oréal's Dermatological Beauty division (LDB) has presented the results of two international skin health studies carried out by La Roche-Posay (LRP) and Vichy respectively:

  • In the LRP study, the largest of its kind to date involving 48,000 people in 34 countries, half the participants (50 %) reported pigmentation disorders such as vitiligo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or melasma. Nearly a third (28 %) said they had lost quality of life as a result of these disorders, and 44 % said they hid the affected part of their body.
  • According to the findings of a survey carried out by Vichy among 20,000 women in 20 countries, 72 % of them feel that hormonal variations have a negative impact on their well-being, and the majority (three out of four women) say that skin problems occur or worsen during menstruation.

During the congress, L'Oréal also highlighted its latest innovations in the fields of skin defense, photoprotection, pigmentation and skin aging, all against a backdrop of sustainable development and inclusion.

New ingredients and Green Sciences

Mexoryl 400 is the patented flagship ingredient of UVMune 400 by La Roche-Posay, the very first L'Oréal technology to protect skin against ultra-long UVA rays and prevent skin damage linked to photoaging, photo pollution and the modification of genes that can lead to skin cancers.

Pro-Xylane by L'Oréal Paris is the first active ingredient derived from Green Sciencesdeveloped from the sugars naturally present in beech bark. Invented over 20 years ago, the Pro-Xylane molecule has since been patented, and has become one of L'Oréal's benchmarks for anti-ageing solutions.

The madecassoside contained in Cicaplast B5 Balm by La Roche-Posay is extracted from the leaves of the Centella Asiaticacombined with water and ethanol derived from sugar cane. This plant extract, known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helps strengthen the skin barrier.

"We are delighted to return to the World Congress of Dermatology armed with new data on skin health that complements the important work of the dermatology community.said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology, L'Oréal. Our extensive research, innovation and growing investment in tech enable us to help solve the most pressing skin and hair problems, from hyperpigmentation and sun protection to acne, dry skin and more, to help more people achieve healthier skin and a better quality of life."

"In partnership with dermatologists around the world, we are advancing skin health for everyone, in their infinite diversity, added Myriam Cohen-Welgryn, General Manager, Dermatological Beauty, L'Oréal Group. By participating in the enrichment of scientific knowledge, creating new sustainable products and augmented services, and supporting people waiting for solutions, we are helping to promote access to skin health for an ever-growing number of people worldwide."

FaiveleyTech inaugurates a new ISO 7 cleanroom

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The FaiveleyTech Annecy site announces the installation of a new cleanroom dedicated to additional assembly operations. This installation will increase the strength of FaiveleyTech's Health BU in the markets for medical devices, diagnostic consumables, pharmaceutical packaging and drug delivery.

Buoyed by constant growth, FaiveleyTech's Healthcare BU is investing in a complementary tool and production force in line with customer requirements and market trends.

FaiveleyTech is an international group of French origin, specializing in high value-added plastic injection molding for demanding, selective and/or normative markets in industry, beauty and health.

The Group increases its production capacity by installing a new 100 m² ISO 7 cleanroom at its Annecy site. This complements the three 1700 m² ISO 7 cleanroom injection workshops (800 m², 600 m² and 300 m²), the two grayroom assembly workshops and the integrated microbiological laboratory. The new cleanroom will welcome its first projects in the summer of 2023.

FaiveleyTech is developing its assembly capabilities in ISO 7 cleanrooms, to complement its injection molding activities (also in ISO 7 cleanrooms).

"Thanks to this new equipment, FaiveleyTech is able to offer the healthcare market a complete package including additional operations complementary to ISO 7 cleanroom injection. This approach, which covers the medical devices, diagnostic consumables, pharmaceutical packaging and drug delivery sectors, is a real added value".says Lionel Frutoso, Director of the Health BU. 

FaiveleyTech Annecy: key site for the Healthcare business unit

FaiveleyTech's Health BU is organized around three strategic business areas: pharmaceuticals (drug delivery and pharmaceutical packaging), diagnostics and medical devices.

The FaiveleyTech Annecy site (formerly Eudica) is focused on pharmaceuticals and diagnostics, with a strong emphasis on industrialization, automation of ultra-qualified processes, a high level of equipment and production in a controlled atmosphere.

It provides players in the pharmaceutical sector with greater responsiveness and flexibility. Its facilities are designed for high-volume, high-throughput production, with high-performance automation adapted to demanding quality requirements.

The FaiveleyTech Ticino site (formerly Socoplast), located in Switzerland, complements this, basing its expertise on medical devices. Equipped with an ISO 8 clean room, it provides customers with prototyping, design support and product studies. Our expertise in micro-injection, assembly, welding and finishing is particularly relevant to the production of small and medium-sized runs.

FaiveleyTech is constantly investing in its production facilities, making it a versatile and agile partner for companies in the healthcare sector. The combination of its product expertise (drug delivery, pharmaceutical packaging, diagnostics, medical devices) and technical know-how (controlled atmosphere production, industrialization and automation of high-cadence processes, mastery of highly demanding qualifications, assembly solutions, micro-injection) makes it a key player in the healthcare industry.

Febea's Claire application on the syllabus of beauty, cosmetics and perfumery schools

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The editorial staff
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Thanks to the efforts of the Confédération nationale de l'esthétique parfumerie (Cnep), the Claire application developed by the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), which deciphers cosmetics ingredients, will be integrated into school curricula for CAP, BP, Bac Pro and BTS students in aesthetics, cosmetics and perfumery by the start of the 2023 academic year.

Developed by Febea in 2020 with the support of the Société française de cosmétologie (SFC), the Claire application provides reliable, educational scientific information on over 29,000 ingredients found in cosmetic products. It is designed for professionals in the sector (sales advisors, hairdressers, beauticians, etc.) and consumers alike.

The Claire application lets you search for information on a particular ingredient, or scan a product's ingredient list to find out what it contains. It does not give any rating or opinion on the ingredient, but only popularized, reliable and verified scientific information, to enable consumers to make up their own minds.

From the start of the 2023 academic year, under the impetus of the Cnep, the Claire application will be integrated into the guides accompanying the reference materials for the national education system's aesthetics, cosmetics and perfumery diplomas, given to trainers. Over 12,000 students will be trained in the use of this application. The aim is to provide them with an easy-to-use tool that will enable them to quickly answer all the questions customers ask about the composition of cosmetic products.

As part of the national training program, the Claire application was presented to all French inspectors.

Saffron flower extract with antioxidant, anti-aging and soothing properties

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The editorial staff
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Thanks to its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process, Biolie has developed Saffrever, a saffron flower extract with antioxidant, anti-aging and soothing properties.

An upcycled natural active ingredient...

This aqueous active ingredient is obtained by enzymatic extraction of saffron cultivation by-products. It is derived from upcycled saffron crocus petals.

... with multiple properties

Saffrever inhibits the activity of β-galactosidase and IL-1, making it a highly effective anti-ageing active with soothing properties, according to Biolie. It also has antioxidant properties, repelling up to 90 % of free radicals.

Good complexion, good eyes with Lumene and Cosmogen's Tense tube

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The editorial staff
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Nordic brand Lumene has chosen Cosmogen's patented Tense tube for its Lumene hybrid corrector, Invisible illumination, serum in concealer.

This innovative multi-benefit formula combines a cold massage, an eye serum and the coverage of a concealer, to refresh, moisturize and illuminate the eye contour. True to the brand's values, the tube is made of recycled PE, and the applicator is detachable for easy sorting and recycling at the end of its life.

Lumene's vision is to be the No. 1 beauty brand in the Nordic countries, recognized for its ingredients derived from sustainable Arctic craftsmanship by a large community of international consumers. Its mission is to develop sustainable, high-performance beauty products for a better future.

The Tense tube continues to win over customers. The perceived benefit is immediate, thanks to the cool effect of its zamak applicator and its easy, expert gesture. The design of this patented packaging had been entirely rethought to make the applicator removable and reusable on a new tube, available in recycled plastic. All components - cap, applicator, tube - are separable and recyclable at end-of-life.

By the end of 2022, Cosmogen had launched a collection of five textured zamak applicators, distinguished by their customization and feel. Cosmogen offers exclusive design development for brands.

Seppic extends its expertise to hair

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The editorial staff
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At a time when one in two women is likely to suffer from excessive hair loss at some point in her life1 The global nutricosmetics market is showing increasing interest in the hair segment. Seppic, with over 10 years' expertise in skin care, is now extending its know-how to hair, with promising clinical results.

The maintenance and renewal of healthy hair is directly correlated with its lipid composition. This is why ceramides, known for their involvement in intracellular lipid formation, play a key role, acting as a barrier to protect the hair cuticle.

With this in mind, Seppic has launched a clinical study on its natural nutraceutical ingredient Ceramosides, obtained from wheat lipids and rich in phytoceramides.

This randomized, placebo-controlled study was carried out on a panel of women of all ages affected by non-pathological hair loss. In just three months, the results highlighted significant effects on various key hair parameters:

  • significant hair length growth of 12.5% vs. placebo
  • a 2-fold increase in the number of hairs in the growth phase: +11,000 (compared with less than 5,000 in the placebo group)
  • a significant 27% reduction in hair loss vs. placebo
  • significant improvement in hair's resistance to breakage thanks to increased elasticity
  • a significant reduction in scalp sebum in women with oily hair

This new study extends the field of application of Ceramosides, whose anti-aging and moisturizing efficacy on the skin has already been proven in three clinical studies. 

Ceramosides is vegan, guaranteed GMO-free, additive-free, preservative-free and gluten-free. It is certified kosher and also has an organic grade.

1 Cleveland Clinic. Hair Loss in Women (online). Accessed in June 2023. 

Groupe Berkem signs distribution agreement in India with Indchem International

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The editorial staff
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Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces the signature of an agreement with Indchem International, a major global supplier of cosmetic ingredients for the beauty sector, for the distribution of its cosmetic ingredients in India. 

Indchem International is one of the leading suppliers of ingredients for the lifestyle market, whose strength lies in analyzing and responding to constantly evolving market trends, guaranteeing their customers products with ever more stringent specifications than those demanded by the international market. With this new distribution agreement, Groupe Berkem is extending its strategy of international coverage of the lifestyle and cosmetics markets in India for its plant-based ingredients, via specialized distributors. 

The Indian cosmetics industry was estimated at 5.49 billion euros in 2019, with ambitions to triple to 17.8 billion euros by 2025. The growth of the middle class and its purchasing power, the expansion of sales channels, the influence of celebrities, and the search for alternative outlets to China, are all factors for a strengthened demand for high-end cosmetics, for which the industry wants to be ready.* 

Éric Moussu, Groupe Berkem Sales Director, comments: "Aware of the strong growth potential of the Indian market and the importance of bringing naturalness to cosmetic products in order to guarantee their quality and performance, we are very proud to be able to count on solid partners such as Indchem international, which has a strong presence in the territory, to ensure the distribution of Groupe Berkem cosmetic ingredients, and to participate in the naturalization of the cosmetics market, which is undergoing rapid transformation, while strengthening our international presence." 

Tavleen Sainathan for IndChem International, adds: "We constantly support our customers and strive to be a one-stop solution provider. Our expertise in identifying specific products enables our customers to stand out in the markets they address. Thanks to leading players in plant-based chemistry like Groupe Berkem, we can reinforce this unique offer of quality products, and enable our customers to strengthen their position in the markets they address via high-end ingredients." 

* Source: data from BusinessFrance

Laser marking: Seram to benefit from Qiova's know-how

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The editorial staff
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Seram, a subsidiary of the Neyret group specializing in accessories and ornaments for the luxury goods industry, has joined forces with Qiova's expertise in innovative femtosecond laser material treatment solutions.

Thanks to Qiova's patented programmable multi-beam laser technology, Seram can produce an infinite variety of functional and aesthetic markings in extremely short times, on a wide range of materials: glass, metal (aluminum, zamac, brass, copper...), ceramic, polymer, textile, wood, cardboard...

The femtosecond laser, by means of a specific interaction of light with the material, enables us to obtain exceptional renderings, right on the product itself or on an added decoration (metal plate, leather decoration, etc.), with perfect control of precision and reproducibility.

QR codes, integrated into the decor or of the infinitely small order, will now be customizable at very high speed, to enable unitary identification of packaging without disrupting the user experience. Digital technology will be integrated into the product in an evolutionary and retroactive way to create a link with users.

The Neyret group is now able to offer a global solution (laser + software) and can therefore provide customers with a turnkey solution, with Seram providing the laser part and Sansara (also part of the Neyret group) providing the software environment for product tracking.

From design to digital solution, including support, these new complete decoration and traceability solutions will integrate all industrial customer constraints throughout the project.

The stakes involved in this Seram-Qiova merger are manifold.

They provide answers to :

  • new consumer expectations: CSR / environment / transparency / storytelling / etc.
  • new aesthetic branding needs: revamping / co-branding / sensoriality
  • new product uses: millennials / NFT / phygital / second life
  • new market and regulator requirements: Agec law / anti-counterfeiting / DPP (Digital Product Passport)

Pochet: 400 years of innovation and new collaborations with start-ups

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The editorial staff
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Founded in 1623 in the Bresles valley, the Pochet group recently welcomed its customers to its Paris premises for a tour retracing its history., highlighting its innovations and initiatives.

"400 years: a magnificent resource for preparing the future".says Xavier Gajey, CEO of the Pochet Group, which this year celebrates its 400th anniversary.

From the small Le Courval glassworks to today's multi-material group, the Pochet Group has grown by combining excellence, luxury and innovation. The group - which today employs 3,700 people on three continents - has become a benchmark in the production of complex glass bottles, while diversifying its expertise in materials and finishing.

A declared ambition: "to be the beauty industry's partner of choice for the long term.

Two announcements have been made to this effect: Chanel and the Pochet Group have developed a digital tool to measure all their energy consumption in real time; the Pochet Group has also entered into a partnership with start-up MagREEsource to offer its customers recycled magnets manufactured in France.

"You can't be sustainable over time if you're not determined to put the planet and the teams at the heart of the project".points out Xavier Gajey.

Better control of energy consumption

As part of its CSR approach, the Pochet Group has set itself the ambitious target of reducing its CO2 emissions by 50 % by 2033. To meet this target, it has teamed up with Chanel and set up a digital tool to measure all its energy consumption in real time at all its factories, and more specifically at its Pochet du Courval - Guimerville plant.

This innovative tool was developed in partnership with Chanel, the Pochet group and Metron, the start-up supplying the solution.

Installed in mid-2022 at the Pochet du Courval - Guimerville glass plant, the Metron tool enables the plant's energy consumption to be managed as a whole, with the implementation of a consumption standard per item/production line.

Thanks to these new control systems, the Pochet du Courval plant has seen a gain of 27 % in gas consumption by its re-baking arches since October 2022, and a gain in consumption by its furnaces and feeders that is currently being quantified.

This investment is part of a long-term collaborative approach between Chanel and Pochet, placing eco-responsibility at the heart of both companies' actions.

"The long-standing relationship we have with our customers enables us to innovate beyond our processes by stepping out of our comfort zone, opening up to the outside world through partnerships that make sense and bring value to the entire ecosystem".says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.

Recycled magnets 

Committed to protecting the environment, recycling raw materials and conserving natural resources, Pochet entered into an 18-month partnership with French start-up MagREEsource to offer its customers recycled magnets made in France.

MagREEsource is developing an innovative technology for recycling magnets sourced in France from the dismantling of wind turbines and electric motors.

"In particular, this innovation will make it possible to divide the magnet's carbon footprint by 10 compared with a magnet manufactured in Asia."says Nicolas Piffault, Pochet Group CSR Director.

Thanks to its knowledge of the beauty and luxury markets, the Pochet Group, in partnership with MagREEsource and its customers, intends to integrate these responsible magnets into perfume caps.

The Group is convinced that innovation means going beyond products and processes to build meaningful partnerships with its entire ecosystem, opening up to the world and pursuing its transformation.

"It's totally innovative and daring for a 400-year-old company like Pochet to team up with a young start-up to make the codes of luxury sustainable.says Nicolas Piffault.

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