- advertising -
Home Blog Page 88

A conference to discuss the future of the European cosmetics industry

As part of the Go4Cosmetics European inter-regional partnership, the Centre-Val de Loire and Lombardy regions organized a conference to discuss the future of the European cosmetics industry, with the support of Cosmetic Valley, the French competitiveness cluster, and REI - Reindustria Innovazione, the development agency and coordinator of the Lombardy Cosmetics System.

The event was hosted by the European Committee of the Regions in Brussels on Monday July 3, in the presence of European institutions and players from the cosmetics industry.

Today, the industry wishes to draw the attention of European institutions to its challenges and the need to be considered as a priority industry. Indeed, while certain sectors of the cosmetics industry value chain are recognized as key industries by the EU, the cosmetics industry as a whole is not yet one of the 14 European priority industrial ecosystems. European programs do not target the cosmetics industry as an application sector, which considerably limits access to funding. This lack of recognition has a direct impact on both academic and industrial players.

The industry needs the EU's support to achieve the objectives of the European Green Pact and successfully pursue its ecological and digital transitions.

On July 3, the cosmetics ecosystems of Europe's regions came together to present their joint research and innovation strategy to accelerate transitions and remain competitive in the face of increased international competition.

A rich program

The conference brought together experts from across the cosmetics ecosystem to share knowledge, strategies and testimonials. The program was moderated by Christopher Burns, co-director of Burnstorm Communication.

The event kicked off with opening remarks from François Bonneau, President of the Centre-Val de Loire region, and representatives of the Lombardy region. Marc Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, shed further light on the industry's current challenges.

The first round table, entitled "Strategies for success", focused on implementing ecological and digital transitions in the cosmetics industry. Speakers included representatives from the European Commission (EC) and the European Parliament (EP), regulatory experts, industry representatives from Lombardy Cosmetic System and a well-known French ETI.

The second panel addressed the subject of international competition in the cosmetics industry. The panel will include prominent speakers from the Parliament and the Commission, Cosmetica Italia, representatives of the Beauty Cluster, as well as industry representatives from Lombardy Cosmetic System and a well-known French cosmetics company.

At the third round table, "Meeting the challenges of the cosmetics industry", participants explored how research, innovation and skills can help overcome industry challenges and seize new opportunities. Key representatives from the European Commission, academia and industry will share their perspectives and success stories, followed by a Q&A session.

The conference concluded with closing remarks and political conclusions from Anne Besnier, Vice-President of Research and Higher Education for the CentreVal de Loire region and member of the Comité des Régions, and Christophe Masson, Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley.

This conference was a rich moment of exchange between industry professionals, political decision-makers and stakeholders to foster collaboration towards a sustainable and resolutely digital cosmetics industry.

A flagship industry

The event was an opportunity to highlight the considerable value of the European cosmetics industry, which in 2021 is estimated to be worth 80 billion euros at retail price, and represents the world's largest market for cosmetic products. It is estimated that the cosmetics and personal care products industry contributes 29 billion euros of added value to the European economy every year: 11 billion euros from cosmetics manufacturing and 18 billion euros indirectly through the supply chain.

Including direct, indirect and induced economic activity, the industry supports over 2 million jobs. In 2021, over 255,111 people were employed directly and a further 1.71 million indirectly in the cosmetics value chain.

What's more, by attracting investment from outside the EU, developing intangible assets such as brands and investing in research and development, the cosmetics and personal care products industry is helping to strengthen the competitiveness of the European economy and foster its future prosperity.

The vast majority of Europe's 500 million consumers use cosmetics and personal care products every day to protect their health, enhance their well-being and boost their self-esteem. From deodorants and perfumes to make-up, shampoos, soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cosmetics play an essential role at every stage of our lives, providing important functional and emotional services.

About Go4Cosmetics: To enable the European ecosystem to consolidate its position as world leader in this highly competitive market, the Conseil Régional de Centre-Val de Loire, the DEV'UP regional economic development agency, the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster, the Lombardy Region, the economic development agency Reindustria Innovazione (REI) and Lombardy's cosmetics ecosystem have joined forces to create a European thematic partnership "Go4Cosmetics" as part of the Intelligent Specialization Platform for Industrial Modernization, promoted by the European Commission and approved in June 2021.

Eight other European regions have joined the initiative: Catalonia in Spain, Centre in Portugal, Nord-Ouest in Romania, Olomouc in the Czech Republic, Sardinia in Italy, Normandy in France, Nouvelle-Aquitaine in France and Lubelskie in Poland. The aim is to strengthen inter-regional collaboration to connect the different regional ecosystems, enabling the exchange of experience and know-how, with the common objective of designing, planning and supporting the development of investment projects actively involving industry players and researchers, while taking into account the latest scientific research findings. A key aspect of the Go4Cosmetics partnership is that it encompasses the entire European chain, from suppliers to R&D to consumers, in order to foster new alliances for investment, innovation and experience sharing. The partnership also serves as a vehicle for representing the interests of the cosmetics industry to European institutions and highlighting policies linked to digital and ecological transformations.

Texen honors YSL's new codes for All Hours

New decor, new challenges: the All Hours foundation adopts the brand's 2023 design. The Yves Saint Laurent logo encircles the hood like a snap ring. This decorative subtlety, added to the technical challenge of a headdress containing materials from recycled sourceswill have required both technical daring and industrial maturity on the part of Texen's teams. Challenge met.

The new All Hours foundation promises high coverage and hold for a luminous matte finish, with no masking effect. In the wake of the Libre fragrance, its packaging features a new design with the YSL logo at its center.

Luxury and eco-design

To meet the expectations of the brand and its environmental commitments, shared by Texen, the project involved adopting a new-generation material. Texen's industrial performance was based on a dual challenge: aesthetic requirements and the use of RPET. The cap was made in a single piece by engraving the logo in the mold, and the thickness of the relief was an additional challenge.

To optimize the design of the industrial tools, Texen's teams carried out a rheological study. The experts perfected the various injection parameters, anticipating the behavior of the material in order to avoid any lines of re-bonding and ensure total uniformity of the molded part.

This expertise, acquired over time, is a real asset on products where expectations are both technical and aesthetic. The second delicate operation is the decoration of the hood and the hot stamping of the decoration in a single pass.

This technically complex product and the use of recycled material required solid cooperation between Texen's technical and development teams at the service of the brand. The eco-design objective was at the heart of the collaboration. Texen is more than ever a partner to brands on projects with a high level of environmental maturity. 

In its 2025 roadmap, 100 % of Texen's offerings will feature an eco-design alternative.

Publication of Afnor spec 2215, a guide to displaying the environmental and societal impact of products 

A major first for the cosmetics, fragrances and nutraceuticals sectors: in just nine months, 120 participants from 26 different organizations (from VSEs to major international groups, including suppliers, independent consultancies and an academic body), including members of the Green Impact Index consortium, worked collectively under the aegis of Afnor to co-construct a methodology for calculating and displaying the environmental and societal impact of cosmetics, wellness and family health products. 

Eric Ducournau, CEO of the Pierre Fabre Group and Chairman of the Green Impact Index consortium, said: " This reference document is a perfect illustration of what collective intelligence can produce in the service of the common good. It now enables all manufacturers of finished products to develop eco-socio-designed products based on common criteria. I am delighted to announce that the first general meeting of the Green Impact Index consortium was held on June 26. A key step in this ambitious and unifying project. We can all take action to reduce the environmental and societal impact of our organizations by making the transition through the products we sell".

Saskia Mamzed Decathlon Health & Care Brand Leader, adds: " Since 2009, Decathlon has been working on the environmental assessment of its products, using the most advanced calculation methods at European level. These quantitative assessment methods enable us to display the environmental impact of our textile and footwear products. For cosmetics, we have chosen to join the Green Impact Index consortium in order to benefit from a pragmatic, comparable method, co-constructed by various market players, leading to the quantitative and qualitative environmental evaluation of our products."

The Green Impact Index consortium's active work on environmental labelling methodology, under the aegis of Afnor, is part of a voluntary initiative within the framework of the European Green Deal: anticipating environmental labelling in the cosmetics, fragrances and nutraceuticals sectors.

Like Nutriscore, the methodology we've developed will enable consumers to choose their cosmetics and wellness products with full knowledge of the facts, thanks to an A to E grading system.

Chloé Fortin, Afnor project manager, explains: "In nine months' work, the participants have succeeded in pooling their strengths to overcome the difficulties of finding applicable and measurable criteria on the basis of consensus. This first methodological compendium could serve as a contribution to the establishment of a future standard, if a new, broader agreement is reached with all the players in the sector."


Understanding the methodology

From the outset, the 120 participants set themselves the goal of developing a methodology that would meet three objectives:

  1. Provide consumers with reliable and transparent information on the quantification of the environmental (e.g. packaging, formulation, etc.) and societal impacts of products (e.g. fair trade, brand commitments, etc.),
  2. Provide economic players with a real lever for progress in the eco-socio-design of products,
  3. Enable the implementation of this display at a cost that is economically acceptable to companies of all sizes.

To do this, they used existing environmental and societal display methods, such as the Green Impact Index launched by Laboratoires Pierre Fabre, Technicoflor's FlorIndex, Groupe Rocher's ecosocioconsoscore, and the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) developed by the European Commission, with a view to the Green Claims Directive, which is designed to combat the proliferation of labels that engage in greenwashing. They also drew on lessons learned from previous experiments with environmental labelling in other sectors, such as Planet Score, to understand the need to supplement impact calculations from product life-cycle analysis (LCA).

The choices made in developing this methodology have made it possible to :

  • Develop a cross-functional approach to different categories of finished products, from cosmetics to family health products,
  • Develop a method adapted to all sizes of company, from the smallest to the largest international group, covering both environmental and social issues,
  • Base the method on benchmarks, labels and standards, enabling companies to capitalize on the efforts they have already made and the labels and certifications they have obtained, 
  • Take into account current and forthcoming French and European legislation on eco-design, the circular economy and environmental labelling, 
  • Co-construct a methodology with all players in the value chain, 
  • Find the best compromise between life cycle assessment (LCA) and environmental and social indicators, 
  • Fully integrate biodiversity issues, 
  • Take into account the specificity of natural and organic products

New premium label papers made from recycled materials and alternative fibers

Avery Dennison today launched four label papers made from recycled pulp and alternative fibers, aimed at the premium packaging segment, including wines and spirits, craft beverages, gourmet foods, beauty products and fragrances.

Available in the Europe, Middle East and North Africa region, this launch comes at a time when industry regulations, corporate environmental policies and consumer demand are contributing to a growing need for sustainable labeling and packaging solutions. The new range comprises three new papers made from 100 % recycled fibers and one made from hemp fibers:

  • Fasson rPaper Black FSC 100% recycled (50% PCW and 50% PIW) is a black, solution-dyed, uncoated paper designed to provide a visually striking label for a variety of applications. Its black color guarantees a consistent, high-quality appearance, avoiding white edges or revealing the whiteness of the back of wine bottles. This paper eliminates bleeding problems in ice buckets and offers excellent printability and compatibility with embellishments.
  • Fasson rMartelé Black FSC 100 % recycled (50 % PCW and 50 % PIW) is an uncoated matte paper with a distinctive "hammered" tactile embossed finish. It matches the non-recycled Martelé Black in the current portfolio, enabling seamless integration into existing labeling solutions. Like rPaper Black, this paper also eliminates the problem of black ink bleeding into ice buckets and, being pulp-colored, guarantees a sophisticated, clean appearance by avoiding the unpleasant problem of white label edges and backs.
  • Fasson rMartelé Blanc FSC 100% recycled (50% PCW and 50% PIW) is also an uncoated matte paper with the same tactile embossed "hammered" finish as rMartelé Black. This specific product will be available later this year, and matches the non-recycled Martele Blanc in the current range, allowing it to be integrated effortlessly into existing wine and other high-end product ranges. In addition, it offers excellent printability with all standard printing methods and embellishment techniques.

New high-end labeling possibilities for hemp fibers

Fasson® Hemp 50% FSC® paper offers a natural, voluminous feel with its uncoated, matt white surface - perfect for high-end organic products. It offers a sustainable alternative to traditional wood pulp-based papers and uses 50 % hemp fibers sourced from France and Germany and harvested up to seven times a year. Its high grammage makes it ideal for labels with embossed or raised details.

"By incorporating these sustainable options, our Sustainable ADvantage portfolio helps brands reduce their environmental footprint and move towards a more sustainable and circular economy, explains Vladimir Tyulpin, Premium Solutions Marketing Manager at Avery Dennison. These solutions are particularly beneficial for industries such as wine, spirits, craft beverages, gastronomy, beauty and fragrances, where brand differentiation and sustainability are paramount."

With a wide selection of recycled front ends, rPLUS (an established and proven technology designed to solve ice bucket problems for white and sparkling wines), and rPET liner construction, as well as the AD Circular liner recycling program and use of the Carbon Trust Footprinting reporting tool, Avery Dennison enables companies to make informed decisions and accurately measure product impact.

L'Oréal and Bakar Labs (UC Berkeley) innovate in cosmetics development and testing

L'Oréal has announced a partnership with Bakar Labs, the pioneering biotechnology incubator at the University of California (UC) Berkeley. This collaboration opens up new opportunities for start-ups at the Bakar Labs incubator, giving them free access to L'Oréal's 3D reconstructed skin models.

This partnership will enable the development of the next generation of beauty products, drawing on L'Oréal's advanced microbiome expertise, Bakar Labs' biotechnological expertise and innovative biological technologies. This forward-looking collaboration aims to redefine the landscape of the beauty industry by creating innovations that meet individual needs, improve skin health and treat specific skin problems with ever more effective and innovative solutions.

"L'Oréal has been pioneering 3D reconstructed skin for over 25 years, offering new solutions for a world without animal testing. Today, we are pleased to make L'Oréal's proprietary deskintech platform available to UC Berkeley's Bakar Labs to support its ecosystem of best-in-class startups in their quest for new discoveries. Through fully integrated production, we will provide Bakar's startups with everything they need to achieve their goals", commented Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology.

Located in the Bakar BioEnginuity Hub on the UC Berkeley campus, Bakar Labs covers more than 3,700 m2 of laboratory and office space for up to 50 start-ups. Its highly diversified community includes companies active in therapeutics, diagnostics, agricultural technologies and the food tech.

"We are delighted to be partnering with L'Oréal, which enables us to benefit from its vast experience in microbiome research and advanced biological technologies.said David Schaffer, professor at UC Berkeley and director of Bakar Labs. This collaboration will enable the companies in our incubator to benefit from valuable resources and knowledge, and to work alongside L'Oréal to advance the field of biotechnology in the pharmaceutical and beauty sectors."

A range of dermo-cosmetic hygiene and care products for men's intimate areas

More and more men are waxing all or part of their intimate areas. This is the background to High Lab Beauty's Che[rr]ies range.

Vincent Bailly, urological surgeon, and Philippe Humbert, former head of the Dermatology Department at Besançon University Hospital, specializing in internal medicine and dermatology, noticed that many of their patients were cutting and infecting their private parts while trying to shave them. They spoke to cosmetics experts Tony Jaillot and Flavien Profumo. Together, they decided to find a solution to this problem.

Che[rr]ies is a new range of hygiene and dermo-cosmetic care products for men's intimate areas. 

A depilatory cream

Fragrance- and paraben-free, Cherries intimate depilatory cream is applied by hand to the areas to be depilated, scrotum and gluteal cleft, avoiding the mucous membranes of the glans penis and foreskin. After 10 minutes, dissolved hairs can be removed with a damp glove. The skin is smooth and visibly softer than after shaving, and less traumatized than with depilatory wax. Regrowth is natural and itch-free. Its formula, based on 88 % ingredients of natural origin, also contains two essential components: potassium thioglycolate, the most effective depilatory active ingredient to date for dissolving hair at the root, and the Skin Preserve System, a latest-generation silicone elastomer combined with high-tolerance natural shea butter which, while allowing the skin to breathe, forms a protective barrier, preventing the depilatory active ingredient from coming into direct contact with the epidermis.

A post-depilation care cream

Applied about ten minutes after depilation, Cherries intimate post-depilation care cream also provides freshness, hydration and softness. Its fragrance- and paraben-free formula, based on 95 % of natural-origin ingredients, also cleanses, soothes, purifies and delays hair regrowth.

Hyaluronic acid, moisturizing and anti-aging, helps maintain water on the skin's surface. Yellow nutsedge oil, nourishing, healing and repairing, is traditionally used in Morocco for its anti-hair regrowth properties. Panthenol, soothing and healing, relieves itching and skin irritation. Lactic acid stimulates gentle exfoliation, cell renewal and collagen production for anti-aging and firming action. Nourishing and moisturizing oleic oil helps strengthen the skin barrier. And vitamin E is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

Pure Trade appoints Cyrille Ly as Director of Sustainable Development, CSR and Innovation 

With almost 30 years in business, 80 employees and sales of €87 million, Pure Trade is a recognized partner of luxury cosmetics and perfume brands, for whom it designs high-end primary and secondary packaging, luggage and promotional accessories, as well as textile articles.

Based in Bangkok, Cyrille Ly's mission is to formalize and deploy Pure Trade's CSR and innovation vision internally and externally, and to manage industrial partnerships in Southeast Asia.

Cyrille Ly has twenty years' experience in packaging development at L'Oréal Luxe, where he also had the opportunity to lead an environmental and social program. Present in Asia since 2019, he realized the disaster linked to the daily use of plastic and the lack of recycling channels for certain types of plastic. He has also observed employment discrimination at the expense of vulnerable populations.

"By joining the Pure Trade team, which is involved upstream in the value and production chain, I can accomplish my mission in close collaboration with our partner factories on these criteria: reducing the use of virgin plastic and improving the local recycling process, supporting and educating the local and vulnerable populations involved in our supply chains, in favor of their well-being and autonomy. Beyond performance and KPIs, I want to steer our CSR approach with sincerity and humanity."says Cyrille Ly.

"I have always been committed to implementing a rigorous CSR policy for the Group, out of conviction and in line with my social and ethical values, says Stefane Ladous, President of Pure Trade. Until then, we had relied on the EcoVadis system with the help of an external consultant, in addition to participating in humanitarian and environmental projects with partner NGOs. Our CSR policy has grown to such an extent that it deserves to be managed internally. It is intimately linked to sustainable development and innovation, and beyond my convictions, it has a strategic dimension. Cyrille Ly's mission is therefore to formalize the vision and then deploy it with employees and industrial partners as a priority".

Two new simplified Alfa Laval valves for the market

Alfa Laval has unveiled two new hygienic valves to join its range of double flap hygienic valves: Alfa Laval Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process.

These two innovative valves offer manufacturers a cost-effective way to improve product integrity while enhancing process efficiency and sustainability.

Proven performance, designed for a specific purpose

These two new products have been designed with a specific purpose in mind, and are based on proven performance. The Unique Mixproof CIP valve is a double poppet valve that safely and efficiently manages the flow of cleaning agents during cleaning-in-place (CIP). The Unique Mixproof Process valve, a compact double flap valve, is configurable and available in different sizes to meet manufacturers' basic hygienic processing requirements. Both models are capable of simultaneously conveying two different fluids without the risk of cross-contamination, contributing to greater availability and lower total cost of ownership.

"These new Unique Mixproof valves guarantee product safety, process flexibility, simple maintenance and opportunities to save water and CIP fluids."says Anders M. Lyhne, Product Portfolio Manager at Alfa Laval.

Reliable, cost-effective product protection

Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process systems provide manufacturers with cost-effective product safety. Alfa Laval's double-valve technology keeps fluids separate, ensuring efficient cleaning and complete protection against the intrusion of harmful micro-organisms. Thanks to a perfectly balanced design, the valves can easily withstand high pressure without the risk of pressure shock. They are certified to FDA, 3A and other recognized standards.

Greater process flexibility

Improve the reliability and flexibility of manufacturing processes with proven valve technology that meets specific production requirements. Modular in design and available in types and sizes to suit different applications, Unique Mixproof CIP and Unique Mixproof Process valves help manufacturers adapt to changing process requirements. Using these valves in combination with Alfa Laval ThinkTop control units offers greater flexibility and process control.

Simplified maintenance

Built on Alfa Laval's Unique SSV and Mixproof platforms, these hygienic top-loading double flap valves minimize the risk of unplanned downtime, while minimizing the time and resources spent on routine maintenance. Proven sealing technology with defined compression extends service intervals, while a maintenance-free actuator with no adjustable components maximizes uptime and minimizes total cost of ownership.

Enhanced durability

Combined with Alfa Laval's ThinkTop system, these new Unique Mixproof valves eliminate unnecessary product losses while saving up to 90 % on water and CIP fluids. Reduced use of CIP fluids contributes to lower total cost of ownership while minimizing environmental impact in process industries. Good for people, good for business and good for the planet.

Symrise opens a new center of expertise in the Paris region

Flavor and fragrance specialist Symrise has inaugurated a new center of expertise dedicated to beauty and home care products at its Clichy site near Paris.

On a 300 m2The new site includes a cosmetics application laboratory for active ingredients and botanicals, an application laboratory for homecare ingredients, and a microbiology laboratory. 

The opening of the Beauty & Home Care center of expertise strengthens Symrise's presence in Europe, as well as the Symrise Clichy site. It draws on an expanded team of scientific and technical experts in microbiology, cosmetics and home care.

This new research facility is part of Symrise's global network of research centers, including the recently expanded Cosmetic Application Laboratory at the company's headquarters in Holzminden, Germany, dedicated to the formulation of actives, botanicals, colors, functionalities, skin protection products and UV filters.

"These investments reflect the continued growth of cosmetic ingredients and the strong market demand to continue providing modern solutions and excellent service to customers in the region."says Timothy Kenny, President of Cosmetic Ingredients at Symrise.

Symrise has invested 1.5 million euros in this new center of expertise.

Fifteen iconic dermo-cosmetic products to refill at the pharmacy

The "Pharma-Recharge" consortium, comprising Expanscience, Garancia, La Rosée Cosmétiques, Bioderma (Naos) and Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, has decided to join forces to reduce the environmental impact of cosmetics packaging. 

In this context of environmental transition, dermocosmetics and pharmaceuticals must innovate to meet the expectations of the 63 % French consumers who want to buy in bulk the products they usually buy packaged.1.

Aware of the urgency and already committed to eco-responsible initiatives, the brands A-Derma (Pierre Fabre), Bioderma (NAOS), Ducray (Pierre Fabre), Eluday (Pierre Fabre), Garancia, Klorane (Pierre Fabre), La Rosée and Mustela (Laboratoires Expanscience), have decided to anticipate and join forces to offer consumers a refill point which, initially, will be tested in a Paris pharmacy (Pharmacie Carré Opéra de la Chaussée d'Antin), before rolling out the experiment to other outlets. 

This virtuous approach has been created by cooperating with players in the French recycling ecosystem, in a spirit of co-construction and iteration. The consortium was supported by experts in the circular economy and by (Re)set, a consulting firm dedicated to environmental transition.

In concrete terms, it's a joint piece of furniture for 15 iconic everyday products. To design it, the consortium chose Mobil Wood, a company specializing in eco-designed furniture made from French wood, for the cabinet structure, and Jean Bouteille, a pioneering impact company in the implementation of bulk and reuse solutions, for the fountains. The consortium also selected a common 500 ml glass bottle for the experiment, compatible with the majority of products.

The user path is simple: the consumer follows the steps in the order module, attaches the bottle proposed for this experiment to the fountain of the product of their choice, a predefined dose is poured automatically, and all they have to do is pick up their bottle and come back next time to refill it. 

Each brand is free to set its own commercial terms with the pharmacy, and the pharmacy is free to set its own resale price.

The experiment is being conducted in compliance with pharmacy health standards and dermo-cosmetic product quality requirements (stop drop, no contact with formula, traceability, etc.). Over the next few months, the experiment will be extended to other regional pharmacies, based on feedback from the pilot pharmacy. If necessary, it will be further developed and, above all, made permanent.

1 Source: Réseau Vrac and Nielsen Panel Views, assessment of the bulk market in 2020, survey of 9,900 households. 

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Newsletter

en_USEnglish