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Fifteen iconic dermo-cosmetic products to refill at the pharmacy

The "Pharma-Recharge" consortium, comprising Expanscience, Garancia, La Rosée Cosmétiques, Bioderma (Naos) and Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, has decided to join forces to reduce the environmental impact of cosmetics packaging. 

In this context of environmental transition, dermocosmetics and pharmaceuticals must innovate to meet the expectations of the 63 % French consumers who want to buy in bulk the products they usually buy packaged.1.

Aware of the urgency and already committed to eco-responsible initiatives, the brands A-Derma (Pierre Fabre), Bioderma (NAOS), Ducray (Pierre Fabre), Eluday (Pierre Fabre), Garancia, Klorane (Pierre Fabre), La Rosée and Mustela (Laboratoires Expanscience), have decided to anticipate and join forces to offer consumers a refill point which, initially, will be tested in a Paris pharmacy (Pharmacie Carré Opéra de la Chaussée d'Antin), before rolling out the experiment to other outlets. 

This virtuous approach has been created by cooperating with players in the French recycling ecosystem, in a spirit of co-construction and iteration. The consortium was supported by experts in the circular economy and by (Re)set, a consulting firm dedicated to environmental transition.

In concrete terms, it's a joint piece of furniture for 15 iconic everyday products. To design it, the consortium chose Mobil Wood, a company specializing in eco-designed furniture made from French wood, for the cabinet structure, and Jean Bouteille, a pioneering impact company in the implementation of bulk and reuse solutions, for the fountains. The consortium also selected a common 500 ml glass bottle for the experiment, compatible with the majority of products.

The user path is simple: the consumer follows the steps in the order module, attaches the bottle proposed for this experiment to the fountain of the product of their choice, a predefined dose is poured automatically, and all they have to do is pick up their bottle and come back next time to refill it. 

Each brand is free to set its own commercial terms with the pharmacy, and the pharmacy is free to set its own resale price.

The experiment is being conducted in compliance with pharmacy health standards and dermo-cosmetic product quality requirements (stop drop, no contact with formula, traceability, etc.). Over the next few months, the experiment will be extended to other regional pharmacies, based on feedback from the pilot pharmacy. If necessary, it will be further developed and, above all, made permanent.

1 Source: Réseau Vrac and Nielsen Panel Views, assessment of the bulk market in 2020, survey of 9,900 households. 

Kering takes over Creed

Kering Beauté announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire 100 % of Creed (€250 million sales 2023) from funds controlled by BlackRock Long Term Private Capital Europe and Javier Ferrán, the company's current president.

Founded in 1760 by James Henry Creed, the House of Creed is an independent player in the buoyant haute parfumerie market, with distinctive fragrance collections that are both timeless and sophisticated, including the iconic Aventus. Created as a couture house for the royal families of Europe, it later became a house of "haute parfumerie". Creed's rich family heritage is a testament to its unique creativity. Olivier Creed and his son Erwin continue this tradition today.

Through its "Fragrance for the Future" program, the company ensures that all its fragrances, developed using artisanal practices and techniques handed down from generation to generation, are sustainably produced in its laboratory in Fontainebleau, near Paris.

This acquisition represents a major step forward for Kering Beauté. Complementing its portfolio of luxury houses, it immediately gives Kering Beauté substantial scale, an attractive financial profile and a platform to support the future development of other Kering Beauté fragrances, thanks in particular to Creed's worldwide distribution network (36 boutiques and 1,400 points of sale). Creed has achieved double-digit growth in recent years, with remarkable profitability and very high Ebitda margins, while preserving the quality of its products and image.

While preserving the House's heritage and exclusive positioning, Kering Beauté will strive to unleash its full potential, both geographically and in terms of distribution and product categories, in particular by accelerating Creed's development in China and the Middle East. Travel Retailand continuing its expansion into women's fragrances, body care and home care products.  

The Fine Fragrances segment benefits from very solid market dynamics, marked by double-digit growth, high profitability and consistent performance, giving it great resilience over the long term. Beauty is a natural extension of Kering's luxury universe, and the Group is confident in the long-term value-creation potential of this strategic market segment for the Group and its Houses.

The cash transaction is expected to close in the second half of 2023, subject to approval by the relevant competition authorities. 

François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering, declared: " The acquisition of Creed, which is Kering Beauté's first strategic initiative, demonstrates our ambition to build a solid position for the Group in the most exclusive segment of this category. I am delighted that our assets and values are now united around this entrepreneurial family spirit and shared taste for excellence to accelerate our development in beauty, and I am delighted to see Creed join Kering's Luxury Houses. "

Jean-François Palus, Chief Operating Officer of Kering, commented: " Synonymous with exclusivity and creativity, the House of Creed is recognized as one of the world leaders in haute parfumerie, and this acquisition will support and amplify our development in this segment. It marks a milestone in the development of Kering Beauté, while we are more convinced than ever of the great potential of our brands in this category. "

Raffaella Cornaggia, General Manager of Kering Beauté, added: " Creed's positioning in the fine fragrance market is unique, and this transaction presents clear fundamentals and mutual benefits in terms of expertise, distribution network and geographic presence. We look forward to working with CEO Sarah Rotheram and her passionate team to continue building Creed's success worldwide. "


TNT creates the new Loubimar miniature for Louboutin

The Spanish Puig Group commissioned TNT Group to create the 9 ml Loubimar miniature, echoing the 90 ml Loubimar light eau de parfum. This is the fourth miniature that TNT Group has designed for Louboutin Beauty's Loubiworld collection, of which there are 11, beautifully presented in a newly unveiled box.

The stylized cap evokes the marine world that inspired this eau de parfum with its citrus and saltwater notes. It features an urchin topped by an anchor and a mooring rope, and has been given a rose gold e-coating finish. A PP (polypropylene) insert holds it in place. This was a real challenge for TNT Group, given its small size.

TNT Group had already produced the three miniatures with orange-orange ecoating zamak covers from the Middle East collection, whose level of precision is just as impressive for such a small format. The beetle, snake and hawk, for example, are all depicted with a high level of detail. This 100 % recyclable creation celebrates the combination of luxury and sustainability, while retaining the essence of the House of Louboutin.

Solvay launches Naternal for regenerative beauty

Naternal is Solvay's new brand of biodegradable, bio-based polymers for eco-designed hair and skin care solutions.

Solvay, world specialist in biopolymers for cosmetics formulations, continues to move forward on the road to caring for people and the planet with the launch of Naternal.

This new responsible brand embodies regenerative beauty, which takes care of every stakeholder, from the planet to farming communities in the field, to brands and consumers.

"The launch of Naternal is a perfect illustration of Solvay's long-term commitment to sustainable growth.says Jean-Guy Le-Helloco, Vice President Home & Personal Care at Solvay. Naternal represents a new era in which it is possible to strike a balance between beauty care, the planet and fair treatment of growers".

Drawing on the power of nature and science, Naternal brings together biodegradable beauty care polymers, derived from guar gum or other natural raw materials, to pave the way for future innovations that meet consumer expectations and regulatory requirements. Naternal's range of ingredients is part of an eco-design approach that integrates product end-of-life management from the earliest stages of research, guaranteeing its development on the basis of both application and end-of-life performance.

According to Galder Cristobal, Director of Research and Innovation for Solvay's Home & Personal Care business, "the cosmetics industry is at the dawn of its transition to green chemistry, and one of the most pressing challenges is biodegradability. For Solvay's customers, our unwavering commitment to ecoresponsibility means they can create the next generations of biodegradable skin and hair care products with the confidence that they are taking into account the well-being of the consumer and the planet."

In the coming years, new solutions and new chemistries will emerge thanks to the commitment of Solvay's scientists and the Group's Renewable Materials and Biotechnology growth platform, dedicated to research and innovation on the use of renewable raw materials and biotechnology for the development of innovative, safe and sustainable solutions. To achieve this, Solvay is also investing in a world-class, multi-purpose microbiology laboratory. This will house state-of-the-art tools for analysis of biodegradation, human and environmental toxicity, enabling a safe and sustainable innovation process right from the design stage.

Solvay's commitment to eco-responsible beauty is at the heart of the Beauty for the Planet initiative, which aims to provide more sustainable ingredients for the benefit of consumers and the environment.

Rissmann enhances Sholo Genève fragrances with adjustable-height gift boxes

Rissmann creates, develops and manufactures exceptional paper packaging - bespoke bags, boxes and cases - that display the unique character of luxury brands in fashion, cosmetics, perfumes, jewelry, spirits or technology. 

The company has a rich history. In particular, it has designed a collection of packaging - boxes and bags - in perfect harmony with the "slow fashion" philosophy of the Sholo brand, which aims to offer timeless, long-lasting, high-quality products made entirely in Europe.

For both the boxes - one size, six colors - and the bags - sizes S, M, L -, Rissmann has selected the elegant Gmund Creative System leather-effect paper, printed in one color, two layers.

The box's visible throat is made of FSC-certified Krekelberg Sense Plain effect suede paper (260 g/m², sow different colors - Tormaile, Saffron, Emerald, Sand, Aniseed and Banana), manufactured from cellulose fibers (eucalyptus), in line with Sholo's expectations in terms of responsible sourcing.

Once opened, the perfectly finished, colorful neck offers an exceptional opportunity to showcase the bottle at the point of sale. When closed, a paper-covered cardboard insert holds the bottle in place, especially during transport.

The bags are reinforced at the top and bottom for perfect stability and long life. Their handles are glued to the inside of the reverse side, for a perfect finish. An oval cut-out between the handles allows you to insert a ribbon and close the bag with a pretty ribbon.

In terms of decoration, the emphasis is on the shiny gold embossed logo, obtained by transfer. The carrying handles and ribbon also feature the gold SHOLO logo.

The Sholo packaging concept by Rissmann was nominated for the Gmund 2023 award for the creative interplay between branding, design, use of paper and technical implementation.

E-Com gift boxes to match 

Rissmann also pushes the boundaries of the E-Com Box, offering a single box whose interior height can be adjusted, thanks to one or more flexible dividers, to accommodate one or more products of different formats.

Notches fix and hold the product(s) during transport, without the need for additional cushioning material (chips, crumpled paper, etc.).

Thanks to its fully customizable interior and dividers, the E-Com box transforms into an attractive gift box when opened, for a maximized user experience. A paper or cotton handle can be added for easy carrying.

For brands, it offers the advantage of limiting stock to a single reference, while adapting to the formats and number of products to be shipped.

Simppar: from Paris to Grasse

"For its XVIIth edition, Simppar will move to Grasse for the first time, on May 28 and 29, 2024. It's a 'homecoming' as Mr. Jérome Viaud, Mayor of Grasse, has announced, and we're delighted to return the favor to our Grasse exhibitors, who have faithfully accompanied Simppar since its beginnings".say the organizers.

Simppar (the international trade show for perfumery raw materials) was held on May 31 and June 1, 2023 at the Espace Champerret in Paris. This year's event broke records, with 3,350 entries - 1,000 more than in 2022 - and 110 exhibitors from 24 countries representing all continents and sectors of the perfume industry:

  • Producers of essential oils and natural extracts
  • Manufacturers of synthetic products,
  • Biotechnologies,
  • Distributors,
  • Packaging and bottles
  • Equipment and software
  • Schools and universities,
  • Associations and trade press.

This year's event was very busy, with large numbers of perfumers from all over the world (464 entries over the two days).

Overall, the internationalization of Simppar continues, with foreign visitors accounting for almost 45 %.

With over 240 entries, students - who will be the driving force in the years to come - were not forgotten, and were able to immerse themselves in the world of raw materials.

See you in Grasse on May 28 and 29 for the next edition!

Health and quality of life at work: Préventica Paris breaks new ground

With an exceptional 188 conferences and workshops, 532 exhibitors and 14,326 visitors over three days, Préventica Paris confirms its position as the benchmark event in France and Europe for all issues relating to new work organizations and improving quality of life and working conditions in the workplace.

Drivers of attractiveness and growth for businesses

SMEs, craftsmen, large companies, public bodies... All employers are now convinced that working conditions are a key factor in attracting and retaining employees, and therefore have a major influence on company performance.

Over 14,000 professionals (HR directors, managers, heads of SMEs, prevention specialists, public-sector employers, etc.) visited Préventica Paris at the end of May. They were in search of inspiration and solutions for better work organization, reduced drudgery, new management methods and innovative solutions to improve overall quality of life at work.

Some 188 conferences and workshops

All aspects of health in the workplace were addressed over three days, attracting a total of over 8,000 participants. The main theme was: How can you make health and quality of life at work a strength for your company?

Among the most popular topics: prevention of mental health and burnout, reduction of drudgery and use of exoskeletons, raising awareness of the benefits of occupational health among small and medium-sized businesses, the industry of the future and new technologies for health and performance, healthy women in the workplace, prevention of addictions, absenteeism, incivilities and harassment, prevention of public policies and subsidies for the prevention of occupational risks and illnesses...

A panel of major organizations and companies

One of the traditions of Préventica is to give the floor to leading professional organizations and major players in the economy, for feedback that delights all participants.

Once again this year, Préventica Paris brought together a large number of live testimonials from all sectors of activity: Safran, Malakoff Humanis, Ledoux avocats, RATP, Bouygues Bâtiment, Framatome, Conseil national de l'ordre des médecins, Accor group, Suez, Santé publique France, Hôpital Foch, ville de Paris, Galerie Lafayette, grand port de Lille, April group, Afnor, Paris 2024, Université Aix- Marseille, CCI Alsace...

A new skin care peptide discovered thanks to artificial intelligence

Nuritas announces the discovery of a new ingredient: PeptiYouth, the first nature-identical peptide discovered by AI that helps restore the extracellular matrix and addresses five key signs of aging. PeptiYouth succeeds in creating synergy with retinol and vitamin C, demonstrating that it is possible to improve skin care formulas.

This intelligent plant-derived ingredient has been hidden in nature for millions of years, and works synergistically with skincare formulas at a very low concentration. Using AI, Nuritas was able to identify the peptide and its activity, and successfully formulated it into various product matrices, demonstrating its efficacy on men's and women's skin in two clinical trials, compared to a placebo. 

According to Nuritas, PeptiYouth goes beyond the first generation of skincare peptides as we know them: a nature-identical peptide, it offers clinically proven efficacy on five key signs of aging: deep wrinkles, dull skin, skin pores, dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Our dermis has a complex architecture - the extracellular matrix - and with age, this architecture is compromised. This alteration is universal, and is at the root of the main visible signs of aging.  

Nuritas says PeptiYouth has shown remarkable results when combined with two popular skincare ingredients: retinol and vitamin C. PeptiYouth can also be formulated into a variety of product matrices, including serums, face creams, eye creams, pigmented make-up and SPF. 

Retinol, a type of vitamin A commonly used in skincare products, is highly effective in improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone. PeptiYouth amplifies the effects of retinol, showing a synergistic effect after just four days of treatment, at a very low dose (test ex-vivo).

Vitamin C is another very popular ingredient in skin care products, supported by dermatologists and recognized by consumers. In combination with PeptiYouth, vitamin C also showed a synergistic effect, while promoting the maintenance of hyaluronic acid binding protein, an added benefit (test ex-vivo).

Both clinical studies were conducted at a concentration of 35 ppm. Nuritas reports that PeptiYouth has been visibly clinically proven effective on five key signs of aging as early as 14 days, making it a valuable addition to any skincare routine. 

Marie Bruckert, Head of Marketing and Communications at Nuritas, adds: "PeptiYouth is a perfect example of how we work to bring value to our customers. With the first generation of skincare peptides, the focus was mainly on skin collagen, using molecules that were very often chemically modified. PeptiYouth is identical to nature. It can be the central ingredient of an entire range, or easily introduced into existing formulas to enhance their effectiveness. It is truly the new generation of peptides for skin care."

PeptiYouth is the first of many discoveries from Nuritas' proprietary AI technology. It demonstrates the potential of AI in the discovery of intelligent ingredients from nature that can elevate the efficacy of existing formulas and replace multiple ingredients with a single one.

Procos: 25 years of creativity and innovation for luxury brands

In June 2023, high-end packaging manufacturer Procos celebrates 25 years of creativity and innovation serving premium and luxury brands.

Founded in 1998 in Germany (Munich) by Leander Kritikos, Procos (for "Pro-Cosmetic") has had, from the outset, the ambition of creating beautiful packaging and retail objects. The company has focused on the fashion, perfume, cosmetics, home decoration, jewelry, wine and spirits markets, offering brands secondary packaging solutions that meet their exacting standards and enhance the experience they create with their products and in their stores.

Over the past 25 years, Procos has expanded across several continents, enriching its expertise to become a key reference in eco-responsible packaging for top-of-the-range homes.

Initially focused on the manufacture of paper bags, Procos soon expanded its portfolio to include boxes, cases and woven products. Since 2015, the company has taken a close interest in e-commerce issues, identifying the challenges of this new market and producing packaging optimized for this use, with its eco-friendly "Yoga Light" box, an all-in-one solution for brands.

In 2022, the company made a name for itself with its "New Material" shopping bag: a smooth, single-material kraft bag with paper ribbon handles, uncoated so 0 % plastic, but 100 % compatible with luxury codes.

Procos also made its mark with the first version of its pop-up box, renewed in early 2023 with a special "Chinese New Year" edition and soon to be revisited with an exclusive 25 years version. This shipping box designed for e-commerce stands out thanks to a foil added to the lid: this covers the products (tied with a ribbon for the gift aspect) and creates the pop-up effect when opened.

In 2023, the company made a name for itself with its new paper bag, the "1998", a special 25th anniversary bag made of white kraft paper, with a multi-faceted 3D structure and embossing, for a feel that, according to the company, "delights the senses".

The company has built its history on strong human relations, a constant quest for innovation and meetings as privileged times for exchange and sharing. 

Thus, in June 2022, Procos organized an event dedicated to eco-design and sustainable and social development to raise awareness among its various partners of the need for such actions.

"At Procos, we strive to be where our customers need us to be. We create and innovate to offer packaging solutions in line with the market's new eco-responsible expectations, as well as its quality requirements and need to stand out from the crowd. We are present wherever we are needed, with offices and production sites on several continents, and we have also enhanced our e-shop platform for optimized logistics solutions. We support every production project, from the briefing stage, where we listen and make suggestions, right through to product delivery.explains Leander Kritikos.

A biomimetic, eco-designed ingredient that restores skin firmness

Confirming on its expertise in active anti-aging ingredients, Seppic completes its offering for mature skin with an ingredient designed to combat sagging skin: Sagacious.

Inspired by the natural world around us, Seppic created Sagacious, an active ingredient that acts globally on all skin layers. Skin is significantly firmer, and signs of sagging are less visible.

Sagacious is a biomimetic active ingredient inspired by the behavior of plants on the International Space Station, which synthesize specific molecules from the glycolipid family to maintain their integrity in weightlessness. Seppic has succeeded in extracting this family of molecules from the algae Himanthalia elongata thanks to the eco-designed and patented "Heart of Algae" process.

Himanthalia elongata is a brown seaweed harvested with respect for biodiversity in France.

Sagacious improves skin firmness, eight times more than placebo, and reduces the visibility of nasolabial folds (clinically proven after 28 days).

Seppic's research and innovation teams also evaluated in vitro its mode of action, proving a restoration of the biomechanical properties of fibroblasts close to those of a fibroblast 28 years younger, thanks to the synthesis of key molecules at the level of the different skin layers:

  • At the dermal-epidermal junction for better cohesion between dermis and epidermis,
  • In the dermis for improved biomechanical and tensor properties of fibroblasts,
  • At the dermo-hypodermal junction for better cohesion between dermis and hypodermis. This is Seppic's new approach to an in-depth and efficient anti-aging strategy.

In compliance with Chinese regulations, Sagacious is also Cosmos and Natrue approved, with a naturalness level of 100 % according to ISO 16128.

Audrey Bonnard, Asset Product Manager at Seppic, said: "Sagacious is an innovative active ingredient, thanks to its biomimetic sourcing and Seppic's patented eco-designed process, which for the first time extracts glycolipids from seaweed. Himanthalia elongata. All this for a proven and visible efficacité as early as one month on the signs of facial sagging."

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