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Groupe Rocher: for ethical and responsible artificial intelligence

Groupe Rocher - IA Pact

Groupe Rocher has announced its adherence to the AI Pact, a European Union initiative to promote the ethical and responsible use of artificial intelligence. It is one of the first French retail companies, and the first cosmetics group, to commit to this framework.

A pioneer in the construction of artificial intelligence compliance governance, the group was singled out at the 2024 Corporate Law Summit in the "Data & AI" category for its commitment to placing ethics and compliance at the heart of its initiatives. In particular, starting in 2022, it has launched an audit system to identify all AI systems in use, regardless of their level of risk, and if necessary conduct more in-depth analyses for a strict assessment of their compliance.

An "Oversight Board IA" committee comprising 11 professions was also created in 2023 to adopt an even more inclusive and reasoned approach to artificial intelligence. " This committee works closely with the information systems department, through a partnership aimed at ensuring a technological transformation that is at once frugal, ethical and compliant, placing employees and customers at the heart of innovation."says the group, which has also set up a Privacy & AI Consumer Observatory. Some 1,000 French people were questioned as part of this initiative, notably on the democratization of AI by companies, a survey which revealed strong consumer expectations in terms of responsibility and governance around AI.

Since 2023, Groupe Rocher has also partnered with start-up Mendo to train its employees in the issues, functionalities and risks associated with generative AI, as part of a proactive approach to prevention and awareness-raising.

Visual taken from the Groupe Rocher.

Fedrigoni invests in Papkot to lead the transition from plastic to fiber in sustainable packaging

Papkot - Fedrigoni

This agreement is part of the Group's corporate venture capital program, which aims to identify cutting-edge start-ups in order to accelerate their innovation process, help them acquire new technologies and assist their customers in their transition to sustainability. 

Papkot has developed and patented a fiber-based paper coating technology. This highly protective coating is fully recyclable and biodegradable on an industrial scale. Its innovative materials science approach ensures compatibility with paper and packaging manufacturing processes. This application represents an alternative to conventional plastic coatings and biopolymer-based barriers. It aims to eliminate plastic from single-use packaging. 

The Italian Fedrigoni Group is a world leader in the manufacture of paper.
for packaging and other creative applications, self-adhesive labels
graphic media for visual communication and RFID technologies.

SurfactGreen launches a new, more concentrated active ingredient

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SurfactGreen formulates, produces and markets solvent-free, biosourced surfactants that are easily biodegradable. The young Rennes-based company is expanding its range of cosmetics solutions with the launch of CosmeGreen PC50. This new surfactant, with its higher concentration of active ingredients, follows in the footsteps of the first synthetic solutions used in hair care.   

According to SurfactGreen, "Naturalness criteria are always present, but technical performance combined with a lower impact on formula costs remain the objective of brands. Our CosmeGreen PC50 makes it possible to reconcile these three elements".

CosmeGreen PC50, made in France and Cosmos-certified, guarantees a 100% % composition of natural origin, without palm oil. Its synthesis is based on environmentally-friendly green chemistry processes, without the use of solvents, and developed from beet and rapeseed extracts.

The other major advantage of CosmeGreen PC50, according to SurfactGreen, is its lower impact on formula cost, with a percentage of active ingredient at 50 %. 

"The cost-in-use objective was the starting point for our research. At the same time, we observed superior technical performance on hairexplains SurfactGreen. Hair care is becoming increasingly popular with consumers, and the CosmeGreen range now offers numerous solutions for conditioners, masks,... with or without rinsing".

Ready-to-use formulas are already available to stimulate creativity and facilitate future brand development.

Photo: Sushi_musume_jk / Pixabay

Gaspard Cottance is reborn with a new-generation organic skincare line

Gaspard Cottance

Founded in Paris in 1863 by Gaspard Cottance, the house that bears his name is back in the spotlight with a new generation of organic skincare products.

In the 19th century, Gaspard Cottance brought French cosmetics into the modern era, bridging the gap between the artisanal approach and scientific techniques. According to the brand, he was behind the first facial ointment to achieve worldwide success on five continents, thanks to a codified formula of unprecedented stability.

Badly affected by the First World War, then forgotten, the brand - which won four gold medals at World's Fairs from Melbourne to Brussels to Paris - was rediscovered in 2018 by a French entrepreneurial couple with a passion for natural beauty and history, during a trip to Tokyo, Japan.

After six years of research, Julien and Sue Le Picard relaunch the brand, offering a complete ritual of exceptional skincare combining biotechnologies and traditional dispensary methods.

Natural science

The formulas are based on the company's three founding principles, These are "revisited in the light of the most recent advances in cosmetology: proportion, guaranteeing optimal concentration of each ingredient; harmony, ensuring perfect synergy with the skin; and elevation, sublimating natural formulas through science".explain the co-founders.

Each treatment contains a clinically effective concentration of regenerating active ingredients - derived from precious plants grown in France or from advanced biotechnologies (cell culture, biofermentation, enzymatic catalysis). At the heart of each formula, water is replaced by the exclusive HBC6 complex, an exclusive fusion of officinal plants and probiotics helping the skin to protect itself from external aggressors responsible for premature aging. HBC6 maximizes the effectiveness of the formulas, acting directly on hydration and the skin barrier.

Organic sensoriality

Sensorial formulas and eco-responsibility are also at the heart of the Gaspard Cottance approach. Full traceability of ingredients, essentially sourced in France, has been implemented. Packaging is made of recyclable glass and FSC-certified cardboard. The natural olfactory signature was developed in Grasse. And the exceptional textures are the fruit of artisanal and scientific know-how.

"This approach is independently audited every year by Ecocert. Made in France in small batches to optimize freshness, and Cosmos Organic certified, these exceptional skincare products inaugurate a new chapter in the age-old history of Maison Gaspard Cottance, celebrating authentic beauty and timeless elegance".the company says.

DS Smith modernizes its Contoire-Hamel site

New DS Smith Contoire-Hamel hood

British paper and packaging manufacturer DS Smith recently completed major modernization work at its Contoire-Hamel site in the Somme region of France. The aim of this €4.5 million investment was to optimize energy consumption and limit CO2 emissions at the plant, which produces paper for corrugated board (PPO).

A new hood has been installed in the dryer, along with an energy recovery tower equipped with three successive heat exchangers. This system reduces annual gas consumption by 20 % (i.e. 28 GWh per year, equivalent to the consumption of a cardboard mill). It also reduces CO2 emissions by 5,000 tonnes a year.

In the service of sustainability

site-industries-cosmetiques A tall industrial metal structure with multiple platforms and staircases stands in the middle of the Contoire-Hamel site. Under a clear blue sky, the factory buildings serve as a backdrop, embodying DS Smith's modernization efforts. Smoke is faintly visible at the top of the tower.
Heat recovery tower at the DS Smith paper mill in Contoire-Hamel © DS Smith

The tower will also recover around 140 m3 of condensation water per day, helping to preserve water resources.

"This project is in line with our "Today and Tomorrow" sustainability strategy and our decarbonization objectives to achieve zero net emissions by 2050. It complements previous initiatives taken at the site, such as our cogeneration station and biogas boiler. This investment also contributes to the plant's long-term viability and the preservation of jobs.said Matthieu Chateau, General Manager of the site.

A major project

To complete the project, the plant had to suspend operations from October 7 to 23, 2024. Up to 150 people from various trades (carpenters, automation mechanics, electronics engineers, pipe fitters, insulators, boilermakers, etc.) worked on the site, which was open 20 hours a day.

Front photo: New hood installed in the dryer.

La Colline opts for airless packaging made from recycled materials designed by Quadpack

Quadpack - La Colline

La Colline's first eco-friendly "youth protector" is part of the skincare brand's new Clar-Ology ritual. Its composition, certified as respectful of coral reefs, has been formulated " to illuminate, preserve and protect the skin's youth and vitality".

This "Metaprotector" comes in a refillable airless pack from international packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack, made from recyclable and recycled materials. Regula Airless Refill meets La Colline's requirements in terms of formula protection, recyclability and high-end design.

"Thanks to Quadpack, we were able to achieve our goal of combining eco-design and luxury packaging. With 100 % recyclable components, a majority of recycled materials and hot stamping that facilitates sorting at recycling stations, the Regula Airless Refill enabled us to avoid making any compromises. We were also charmed by the wide choice of customization options in terms of printing and materials."explains Samy Frois, Packaging Purchasing & Development Manager at La Colline.

Entirely metal-free, Quadpack's Regula Airless Refill packaging, designed to be refillable, is high-performance and luxurious. In line with La Colline's preference for local sourcing, it is manufactured and decorated in Quadpack's factories in Germany, which run on renewable energy. 

The solution proposed for Le Métaprotecteur contains 74 % of recycled materials (PCR). It comprises an outer bottle and cap in recycled polyethylene terephthalate (PCR PET). The interior is made of polypropylene (PP) for excellent compatibility, and is ideally suited to minimizing product volume.

Sophisticated decoration reflects La Colline's prestige identity. The outer bottle has been coated with a matte varnish, and the decoration has been applied by hot stamping and two passes of silk-screening (two colors). The adapter, hot-stamped in shiny silver, connects the bottle to the metal-free white pump. 

The hood, meanwhile, is adorned with a layer of silver using full-coverage hot stamping, a low-emission, solvent-free alternative to metallization that is more durable. Decorated samples were supplied at each stage of development to guarantee the desired appearance.

In terms of performance, airless technology helps guarantee product integrity by protecting the formula from air and external contaminants. What's more, each application benefits from uniform dosage, while the high restitution rate ensures waste-free use.

BGene and TechnicoFlor join forces

Bgene - laboratory-bacteriology

BGenea company specializing in the development of innovative synthetic biology bioprocesses, and TechnicoFlora French designer and manufacturer of fragrances for the perfume and cosmetics industry, have announced a strategic partnership.

This partnership is based on complementary expertise: BGene will contribute its know-how in bioinformatics, metabolic engineering and fermentation, while TechnicoFlor will draw on its in-depth knowledge of the market and fragrance creation. The aim is to develop new, high value-added fragrance molecules based on sustainable production processes with a reduced ecological footprint.

"We're delighted to be working with TechnicoFlor to push the boundaries of sustainable innovation in the fragrance sector, said François Durin, General Manager of BGene. Combining our expertise in synthetic biology and molecule design with TechnicoFlor's know-how in fragrance development will enable us to provide revolutionary solutions tailored to the industry's growing demands."

"This partnership perfectly reflects our commitment to sustainability and innovation. Together, we are able to create innovative products that meet the growing demand for renewable and bio-sourced ingredients in the fragrance industry".said Christopher Sabater, President and CEO of TechnicoFlor.

Photo taken from the BGene website: www.bgene.fr

Fiabila: water-based nail polishes open up new horizons

site-industries-cosmetiques Two hands intertwine on a plain white background. One is darker and the other lighter, adorned with a ring. Both feature perfectly manicured nails, perhaps painted with Fiabila nail polish for an exquisite finish.

Formulated with at least 50 % of water as the main solvent, water-based nail polishes offer the advantage of being odorless and non-flammable.

These water-based formulas, which are particularly well-suited to children - especially those that can be washed off with warm, soapy water - could appeal to other consumer categories (actors, comedians, women who are not used to wearing nail polish), who would appreciate their ephemeral use and ease of application and removal.

To extend the life of water-based nail polishes by two to five days, Fiabila offers two formulation options in addition to the warm-water wash-off option: peel off (lift off the film that has formed) or wipe off (use a regular nail polish remover).

Lastly, thanks to the affinity of its active ingredients with water, Fiabila has turned the color & care concept on its head, adopting a new approach to skin care. care infused color, which consists of high-performance, hyperactivated water-based nail polish formulas. Dedicated primarily to skincare, they can be colored, even soberly or naturally like nude.

This opens up new perspectives for brands, whether to highlight the year's highlights, or to meet previously unexplored expectations.

Sensient Beauty acquires Biolie, expert in white biotechnology

Bolie x Sensient

Biolie, a raw materials manufacturer specializing in white biotechnology for the development of natural cosmetic ingredients, has developed a patented solvent-free enzymatic extraction technology for natural ingredients. The French SME has been acquired by US company Sensient Technologies Corporation, a global specialist in color and personal care applications. The acquisition was finalized on February 14, 2025.

"We are delighted with the strategic fit between our two companies, which confirms our position as a global leader in the supply of natural, sustainable actives and colorants to the personal care industry."said Mike Geraghty, President of Sensient Colors.

"The acquisition gives us access to Biolie's biotechnological process, which will enhance our portfolio of active colorants."added Gaelle Frere, Managing Director of Sensient Beauty.

"Sensient expands the availability of Biolie technology worldwide, our natural products with enhanced performance will now be able to offer customized innovation and value to brands worldwide."said Nicolas Attenot, founder, President and COO of Biolie.

The acquisition expands Sensient's manufacturing and innovation footprint in France. Sensient Beauty - the trade name used by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, a subsidiary of Sensient Technologies Corporation - is headquartered and has its main production facility in Saint-Ouen l'Aumône (95).

25th Cosmed Regulatory Congress

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Two days to keep abreast of regulatory developments! Cosmed, the trade association representing cosmetics companies in France, is organizing the 25th edition of its Regulatory Congress, on March 26 and 27, 2025 in Paris and streaming. 

During the two-day event, company directors and managers in charge of regulatory affairs, R&D, toxicology and quality engineering will be able to discuss their issues with regulatory authorities, partner associations and other industry professionals, while learning about future challenges.

This benchmark event brings together regulatory experts from the cosmetics industry and welcomes representatives from the main competent authorities: European Commission, EFfCI, Anses, DGCCRF and Iba. (Independent Beauty Association). Over 300 professionals are expected to attend.

A program to anticipate regulatory changes

Renowned specialists and institutional representatives will be on hand to provide a clear and operational vision of current and future regulatory changes through a number of key events:

- Regulatory news: deciphering European and international developments.

- Round tables: discussions with authorities and key industry players on microplastics and international labeling.

- Ingredient panoramas: focus on developments concerning substances (filters, chemical inventories, controversial ingredients, CLP).

- Export conferences: international regulations and market opportunities in China, the USA and South Korea.

A hybrid event

The regulatory congress will be accessible both in person in Paris and via streaming. This hybrid format will enable a wider audience, in France and abroad, to access the strategic content and discussions with the experts.

Registration and detailed program available here: https://www.cosmed.fr/congres-reglementaire-cosmetique/

Image: Carmen Carbonell / Pixabay

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